Review on 🚙 Rough Country 2.5" Lift Kit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK - Series II Suspension System by Greg Anderson

I think it really should be closer to four stars but for the price and time I give it five. Annoyingly, the kit comes with all standard threads while Jeep has all metric threads. I hate metrics, but I hate switching between them even more. An impact driver and wrench makes the job go much faster (I love my Milwaukee tools for this). I also found that my jacks weren't high enough to use on the frame, so I was wary of using my van's leveling jacks to jack up the Jeep. The instructions were sufficient. To install beads, here are a few. Although the instructions start in the front, go to the rear first as you will need the rear stabilizer links to assign to the front. Put the crimp bushings on the bolts first before attempting to install them on the new stabilizer links. I didn't do it first, and a little tapping with a brass hammer twisted them hard to the point where the bolts wouldn't go through without a little convincing. That then damaged the threads and I had to chase the threads. On the driver's side, too, the lower stabilizer nut will not get past the new tie rod mount without grinding down the built-in washer a bit. I ended up using an old stabilizer bar nut and bolt for this (and why did Jeep use two different threads for the stabilizer link?). Installing new rear spacers is difficult. If you have short, fat fingers, seek help. You'll find a way to hold the top washer nut with your finger, and the washer also has vertical clearance that allows you to see where the bolt should line it up. Use a 6" extension and put something on the bottom of the 3/4" socket to get the screw high enough to be screwed in by hand. It also helps to have a thin 3/4" curved wrench to hold the top nut while tightening. The front calipers were too long so I drilled another hole for them. The buttocks were fine. A coil-spring supercharger (use MacPherson struts) is optional, but it certainly helped the rear end a bit. The front coil springs were much easier to reinstall and did not require a coil spring compressor. I stepped on the driver's side brake gauge, which was enough to get the coil in, and then used a jack on the driver's side axle to raise it, which lowered the passenger side just enough to install the coil spring. The front shock bottom brackets don't fit and it takes a bit of flexing to get them into place. I had to bend it a bit to fit the old mount, then screw in the vertical bolt, then I had to bend it a bit more to fit the shock eyelet. Once tightened, the slight flare is eliminated. Overall, the install didn't go too bad. I've been a shade tree mechanic for 35 years, restoring old cars and fixing new ones, and it probably took me a little longer because 1) all my tools are in the back shed about 400ft from my driveway (wife has the front garage) and I probably have did a few trips as I had no idea what I really needed. 2). I had to figure out how to minimize getting under a car that wasn't supported and I didn't have jack stands high enough. And 3). My wife and children were at home, so the swear language did not allow me to quickly express my dissatisfaction, and I had to remain silent.