Illustrations show welded steel spacers. I got hard molded plastic spacers - no problem for me. Somehow I got a little over 2-3/4 inches of lift up front and almost 2-3/4 inches out back. The front spacers (I measured them prior to installation) are 2-1/2" in front and 2" in back. Yes, everything fits perfectly. I should sit in the spring baskets like spacers. Installation from start to finish took 4 hours at the back and 6 hours at the front. The front installation also included the installation of wishbone suspension brackets so the removal from the front took 2 hours for a total of 8 hours. Yes, I took my time fumbling with the jacks in the driveway, using the impact to get the bolts out. If you don't have an effect, expect it to last longer. Be sure to disconnect the brake lines and cables for the ABS and differential lock, as well as the bleeder hoses and parking brake cables. You will most likely need a second pair of hands to do the front. I use stock shocks and they limit axle sag. If you have longer than stock shocks, you will likely need to purchase longer brake lines and possibly extend other wires/cables as well. Terribly scarce staff. You can get some relief by not using all the "Christmas tree" wire mounts for ABS wires and lockers. I know that many JK lift kits from 2" to 3.5" only have dropper brackets to move the brake line and I haven't done any testing but I would be VERY concerned. If I could do it again I would just go ahead and buy longer front brake lines for this kit, I don't like the amount of bends you have to make to get the front lines to work with the lift. I only took off one star because the instructions are not 100% clear (but pretty good) and I would like the bolt packs to be labeled or at least the P/N of the packs in the instructions for 'front', 'back' ", "tie rod" and so on. The images are dated and look like they came from a previous design. Figuring out which screws go where probably took an hour to install. The instructions say the front shock extensions are different, but I've looked at them side-by-side and haven't noticed a difference in my life (different stamped numbers, but no L/R or D/P markings). I must have been wrong because the first one I tried I couldn't align. I was having a hard time aligning the holes so I tried a different one and it worked. Also, wouldn't it kill you to use the same size metric nuts and bolts as the Jeep so I don't have to keep switching between sockets and wrenches? (Calipers, shock extensions, etc.) Sometimes it's the little things, and this time the little things add up to a star.
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