The packaging is not bad, the metal construction looks solid with a thick cover plate, the electronics are quite sufficient. The Corexy belts and XY stepper motors are pre-assembled on the top plate. The Z stepper motors and the electronics are pre-assembled and wired in the base cabinet structure. The shipping packaging is very good and well protected. You may end up with a good working machine, but you have to figure out how to get there yourself and from what you can find online. This is probably not a good car for a new user. It's also handy to have a working 3D printer to make parts while working with ELF. The instructions are at best a general overview of the parts inventory and how they relate to each other when assembled. They provide a step-by-step assembly that is more like a set of goals than a detailed document intended to cover aspects of the process such as: B. the orientation of parts that are designed for only one orientation, or the order conflicts to avoid. The illustrations included are generally too small and unclear to show some of the useful details that a more detailed image could offer. It's possible you'll need to undo/redo the steps before you finally have it all together. Things like the placement and orientation of limit switches are also only considered in their infancy. Belt tension or adjustment is not discussed. The phone number listed on the Revain storefront appears to be their Chinese phone number without the country code (+86). I couldn't find a US support number. Email or web messages seem to be the only options. They respond via the Revain communication portal within about 24 hours and seem willing to help. One problem with my machine was that the extruder had a bottom filament guide that would fit the machine with 3mm filament. My machine is designed for 1.75mm filament. The correct instructions were not included with the parts. This would make a successful soft TPU print almost impossible. I discovered this after disassembling the extruder to understand why loading fresh filament was sometimes problematic. I'd like a proper manual, but a spare part I printed on another machine will do for me. For example, if you come across this, look at .stl files for instructions on how to use titanium filament. I'm in the process of emailing for a suitable OEM replacement, but it's taking a while. control board. There are no provisions to support the cable during use, to protect the connector from kinking, or to control the feeding of the filament into the extruder after it has passed the filament run-out detector to be attached to the frame (the run-out detector is cable too short to be able to place it in the extruder). You'll have to come up with your own preferred solution, and that will likely involve printing some of the details. Other than that, my machine seems to be running pretty well now. I installed the BL-Touch and the Marlin 2. I like the Marlin a lot better than the OEM firmware that came with the machine. I have not attempted to use the BL-Touch with OEM software as that would require one of the Z limit switches to be disabled before I would know if the BL-Touch would be recognized. The addition of a pair of steel ball bearings for the Z-axis rods that sit in the Z-connectors eliminated the springiness of the helical connectors that were presented to the Z-axis rods when mounted just below the set screw location. I didn't like their filament runout sensor. , there seemed to be significant resistance on the side of the frame. I made an extension for the beat detection wiring and made a light home made beat detector that sits above the extruder. I used spiral wrap to tie the VGA cable, bltouch and beat sensor wiring, and a swivel support arm where the wiring connects to the frame. Pole as part of the printed VGA riser replacement cover provides VGA connector relief and wire harness anchorage. A piece of Bowden tubing now guides the filament from the spool holder to the extruder without the filament rubbing against the frame.
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