Would definitely buy this again! Relatively easy to put up with one person as I did, but would go faster with 2.esp to hold the level while marking the holes for the brackets. As others have stated, the holes are a little difficult to get to. The brackets seem sturdy even though they don't seem to be 100% straight. They are slightly twisted, but it doesn't interfere with anything and really isn't noticeable. I haven't 100% tested the light factor, but in the early afternoon with the lights off, it seemed to be doing a pretty darn good job!Here's some tips that might help those trying to decide whether these are good for blackout curtains and darkening rooms:1) The way around the mounting holes clearance is to drill or use the screw to make a pilot hole. Depending on what material you're putting it into (I was installing them on paneling). Put one screw in with a regular screwdriver until it's almost all the way in and then put the other screw in the same way. While it's loose, the bracket can lean to the side as you're screwing it in. Once the screws are almost in, hold the bracket back against the wall, and it will be easier to tighten the rest of the way.2) a 4' bubble level and a small (even 2") bubble level help immensely. I used the four foot to level the brackets across and then I used a smaller level to level the bracket vertically.3) I'm not sure how wide I made the rod altogether, but it worked out perfect because half of the rod sits in the two right brackets then the second half of the rod slides into the left. I think in the long run, this will make it sturdier versus it resting on the rod that slides inside, but I realize it's not possible with all situations. I also butted the end knobs up against the bracket and used the set screws to help hold them in place. Since I won't be opening and closing them a lot, I can't tell you how well it'll hold up to actually sliding the curtains across the bars without them moving, but I'm sure if you use a screwdriver to tighten the set screws instead of just finger tight, they will definitely hold the rod in place.4) As you can see in the pictures, I have grommet room-darkening curtains. I overlapped the two curtains in the middle and took the last grommet, brought it out over the front rod and just hooked the Grommet over the knob on the back rod. That brings the curtain closer to the wall and will hopefully eliminate any side light. Overlapping the two curtains doesn't affect being able to open the curtains either.except sliding them open (obviously).They can still be pulled back far enough to let enough light and breeze in when needed.The last picture is to give you an idea on how close the curtain rods are to the window. A lot closer than I expected. The molding on my windows are an inch thick.
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