I want to give a good review. The product I found very well made, there were a few threads that were a little rough but could be dealt with and I smoothed them out a bit, maybe the manufacturer can fix that? I'm an Air and Auxiliary Power Inspector. I know what I look for when it comes to quality. So first I removed the tires and brushed the rotor studs and rim contact surface with a steel bristle brush. I then used red permanent Loctite about 1/2-3/4 from the base of the bolts as this is where the nut will sit at the end of the tightening. Even if you use excess Loctite, you can't go wrong. Remove drips, then mount the adapter and screw on the clamp nuts. I hand tightened them and torqued them to half torque and then star tight a second time to full torque. Which I used with the specified torque as stated in the description. I added 5 ft/lbs because I have a port freight torque wrench and it is accurate to +/- 4%. (If you're buying a port freight torque wrench, be sure to follow the directions. You'll need to operate the torque mechanism multiple times for the internals to work properly and get the most accurate readings.) I want to make sure I'm at least 100 ft/lbs. In any case, after tightening, I visually checked that the adapters were installed correctly, and using a depth gauge, I checked the top of the bolt tips to the top of the lug nut, and they were all within +/- 0.005". (Also a side tip, if you don't have a second person to hold the brakes, you can use a breaker and press it between the driver's seat and the brake pedal, and then move the seat forward electrically to apply the brakes, you don't need to press hard or you'll damage the Driver's seat motor.) Back on topic, after installing all the adapters, I left the car on jack stands for 6 hours.(Loctite starts to dry after 2 hours and fully hardens after 24 hours.) FYI, the rotor bolts stick out .250" more than the adapter (for 1.5" wheel spacers) (this may not work for aftermarket rims if you ni cht need to upgrade to 2" spacers) so check your rim and make sure there are recessed holes that the bolts are sticking out, my stock rims were, I used my depth gauge to check the recessed holes in the rim , they were about .333" and my protruding screws were .250 which means they don't touch and I understand the seat flush. The next part is the key, then I mounted the wheels. It's a tight fit between the wheel and adapter, so I installed the lug nuts manually, then slowly walked into the star pattern and noticed how tight the gap was when the wheel was tensioned. I slowly proceeded with the repair, making a small number of turns on the adjacent sides, I had to go through the star pattern four or five times before it became even. I then proceeded to star tighten to the same torque as mentioned above after checking the depth of the bolt tips to the top of the nuts on all bolts to make sure they were actually flush. I seem to have +/- 0.005. What is good about my book. (FYI, you don't need to use red Loctite on the lug nuts unless you really plan on taking them off and you're Baja racing, drag racing or something). The next step is extremely important. I left the center caps off, drove around the block a few times and parked in the driveway. To my surprise, the torques were loosened up a bit. Then I put it back on and drove around the block again, I had to put it on a third time, but this time it wasn't too bad (you'll notice that the front wheels are looser than the rear wheels due to the steering), you have to understand that this should be done as the wheel is still trying to find an optimal place to sit. Then I drove a third time and accelerated to 65 km/h several times with hard corners and hard braking. I checked my torque again and everything was fine. (FYI I have stock rims and my center hubs have clamps to keep the clamp nuts from loosening. If the torque drops it won't go down much.) I'm sure I'll have to re-tighten it, but I'm expecting no serious questions. I don't want to be one of those guys who lose a tire walking down the street. I think I would have died of shame before I fell. Lol I followed every precaution I could find online. Another pro tip: Permanent Red Loctite will come loose at 300 degrees and a percussion gun or by hand with a pry bar. Also pro tip for pro tip: If like me you like working on the car yourself, try replacing the rotors at the same time with this setup to avoid having to replace the rotor in the near future. I have an '07 Ford F150 Lariat, if I run into any major issues I'll be sure to update here. Many Thanks. UPDATE: still 5 stars. My wife has driven about 1500 miles since installing it, I checked the torque of the nuts. Each lug nut still held its torque. Now I can honestly be sure that the adapters won't cause me any problems. I'm going to buy a kit for another truck. Thanks very much!