Review on 💪 Maximize Efficiency with the Malco FCMS 5 Inch Exposure Overlap by Ryan Fuhrer

Without a doubt, as others have said, these sensors are very useful when hanging sidewalls alone or with help. And if you know their shortcomings in advance, they will not stop you. In fact, they are easy to bypass. So what are their shortcomings? Good. The metal sensor "measures" the top of the board and the red plastic sensor "measures" the bottom. To get perfect alignment, you need both jigs AND siding to be perfectly aligned for every detail. This can never happen for the following reasons. The siding does not match the size/width; tight but not perfect. There are variations. · Because the metal gauge is measured from above, it measures the overlap between the pieces and not the opening, which is the most important measure of aesthetics. · The metal gauge relies on the operator always placing the trim in the same position. (in/out of the wall) every time. A change in the entry/exit position leads to a difference in the side panel height. Not a sensor error, but perfect alignment doesn't always happen either. · The metal sensor bends/flexes and moves a little, also causing uneven placement. · Vertical placement (fixing) of a metal sensor above the previous siding. Of course, it does not always have to be equal to the operator variance. The plastic gauge is the most reliable/durable, but will flex slightly under the weight or holding pressure of the fairing as you press it into place. If you don't find and correct a kink, the alignment may vary slightly. My plastic overhang was just under 7-1/16 inches instead of exactly 7 inches as it should have been. While not a big deal, adding this bug to 20-30+ courses may change your layout a bit; especially if you're cutting siding around windows. Leaving too few stripes above or below windows and doors can look bad. Measure the exact opening before beginning the installation and lay out accordingly. Ok, among other things, what's the best way to use these things to get the most consistent alignment possible? Basically use the metal gauge only as a third hand to hold the siding in its "approximate" position, but use the plastic gauge for the actual "fine adjustment". First install the metal jig on the other end where you will be installing the next piece of siding. Place a plastic gauge on the new vertical seam (1/2 below the previously installed part of the new row and half below the bottom of the new part). This will ensure that the bottom of the seams line up - this is important from an aesthetic point of view! Insert a nail on this edge. Now move to the center of the new part of the fairing and measure the opening again with the red gauge (move the fairing up/down as needed). Insert another nail. Then remove the metal sensor on the other end, but still support the siding lightly with your hand until you install the red sensor on the other end. Add another nail. Now go back and insert nails (without templates) between 3 nails according to your nail plan. This should leave you with a permanent, if not exact, socket for your siding. Once you master this technique, you can speed it up by hammering between the 2nd and 1st nail before moving on to the other end and you're done. Of course, if you use one or more ladders instead of scaffolding or jacks, you should quickly master this technique. Another tip for using the red indicator. This works well as a layout tool for measuring the length of sloped gables. In the last row, move the sensor sideways until it contacts the eaves or frieze board. Use a pencil to draw a light line on your side panel using the flat surface on top of the jig. Now you can see where the beveled tip of the trim meets the pediment for your measurements. If you need to make miter cuts on both ends of a piece and have a helper, make a line on the side panel at one end as above, then give your partner a red scale. Have her hold it by the other end and hook the edge of your tape measure to the top of the red gauge to measure from tip to tip of your double bevel.