I recently had to replace a melted wire due to poor HVAC system design on my Jeep Wrangler. In the process I made several modifications, one of which replaced the 40A fuse with a more reasonable 20A fuse. I had no problems with my old engine and drove it through the summer months without any problems. Now that it's cooled down I figured a new motor would do the trick. Especially since the old motor probably drew more current and was the cause of the melt. Although this motor wasn't the cheapest, I chose it as the cage was the same as the OEM and the bushing was correct (more on that later). When I first opened the box I found that the cage was not OEM. style, no picture in the listing. Attached is a photo of the motor I have. You can see that it has a black cage and there is no spider spindle mount in the middle part. For this I immediately deducted a star as I bought it on purpose because the cage style should be the same. However, I decided to give it a try because I didn't feel like returning it if it worked. The installation was basically easy. The motor and cage fit snugly into the blower body and all the screws are perfectly aligned. What was the pain was the outlet. I had to twist the fork a variety of ways to finally get it to line up and go in, and even then it took a little effort to get it working. When I unplugged it to make sure I didn't bend anything, I had to work really hard to get it out. It looks like the guides don't quite line up with the connector, but I'm not sure. On the other hand, the socket is deep enough to be able to fully insert the plug, which is what some people say about cheaper (universal) fan motors. Tested it before putting the battery in and didn't hear anything loud or smelly. Burnt smell or bad odor. I was driving to work and the fan was running all the time. Still didn't smell or hear anything unusual. Airflow was strong and consistent, as good or better than the old stock fan. However, after 15 minutes it stopped working. Stopped and found the fan had blown a 20A fuse I installed. This is something my old motor never did, meaning the new motor takes MORE current to run than the 20 year old I removed. An OEM motor in a Jeep typically draws around 13-16A at top speed, depending on age. This means this motor draws significantly more current than a new OEM unit, which worries me about burning my wires again if I return the larger fuse. I sent my old engine back the next day and no other fuses blew on the way to work so I can conclude the engine was the culprit. Since I haven't heard anything strange while running it, I can only assume that something in the motor (like a short in a winding) was causing the current draw, not friction or sticking. A bad sign for a brand new engine, so back. Sold with matching socket and will not snap into fan box. But you'd better check your current draw to make sure you're not getting anything that's going to die or burn out your wiring in a few months.
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