Is it honest to write a review)) Since I am an electronics engineer, I will write on the case. Let's throw away all the little things, crumpled boxes, broken plastic, inconvenient returns, all this does not matter, this is for the sellers . And so our miracle, well, like ours, on Chinese components, the cheapest switching power supply, at the request of the manufacturer, gives a current of 20 amperes, but it gives hope for them at best)) even if you limit the current to 10A, the wires are already wildly heated, the whole thing in fact, the cross section should be at least 2.5kv! And here 0.75 is of poor quality . the network generally barely holds on and the plug is like from a garland . the wires are terribly short, if the battery is removed, it will still work, but if you cling to the car, then it’s already a problem. And the main problem is that if the battery was heavily discharged like mine, then connecting the unit on the machine simply does not pull the load and starts to go into defense, and what’s the worst after trying to return from it, thereby supplying short voltage pulses to the machine, from which can burn the body module or the ecu unit. Summarizing your story, if you have a removed battery, closer to the standard type of 50-60 A / h, then it will be mastered overnight. If a serious ebay with high current consumption, you should not even try! Burn your control boxes! PS for critics, there are cars in which the battery is not under the hood, but there is only a charge port)
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