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Review on 🌑️ Omix-Ada 17209.05 Engine Coolant Temp Gauge for Jeep CJ5/CJ6/CJ7/CJ8 (1955-1986) by John Collins

Revainrating 5 out of 5

Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge OMIX Ada

I have used this gauge before and can say it really works. If you find that installing this gauge with an OMIX Ada fuel gauge in the instrument cluster of a CJ5 or CJ7 Jeep does not display one or both, contact OMIX Ada Technical Support. I did so and was told that, I don't remember now, the sensor in question was tied to the left fuel or temp sensor. I was instructed to switch the position A wire to position S on one of the sensors and it worked. I remember making a new jumper from the gas gauge to the temp gauge as the original jumper didn't reach the terminals needed to change the position so it may have been a fuel gauge that 'polarized' reversely when reassembled was. Maybe a mix-up of negative or positive reason for which car is intended? I do not know. However, you must ensure that all precautions are observed when replacing these pressure gauges. Clean the instrument panel at the location of the instruments to get a clean mass. Also make sure the insulators (white plastic) are properly seated on the cluster when installing. The connecting bolts must not touch the instrument cluster. Install the wires and jumpers as originally installed and observe the results. Be sure to reset the factory harness ground at the cluster mounting stud, or do so if it is missing. Proper grounding must be present for proper dashboard grounding. If a sensor is fluctuating, contact Technical Support for a recommendation before proceeding. I got these sensors working, I am sure that if you follow all the instructions on the OMIX Ada website you will have success. This detailed installation suggestion is mandatory to get correct results or to troubleshoot when erratic operation is observed. Don't be frustrated and do no wrong and no harm, install it right the first time and see the results the first time, then move on. Although they need to be built straight from the factory, you'll agree that we can get them working provided they're in perfect condition to begin with. If you must try to ground the sensors before installing them on the dash, make sure you use the correct ground for the group, not the terminals. None of the pins are ground. Each sensor (fuel and temperature) has a ground contact tab just behind the mechanism that controls the movement of the needle. Look for a small copper protrusion that will make contact with the instrument cluster during assembly. The I-connector comes from the ignition, the S-connector from the transmitter, and the A-connector carries voltage from one sensor to the other. The sensors are grounded by a tab that only contacts the cluster. The jumper is white copper and is a voltage only, not a ground jumper. It was instrumental in the function of Stewart Warner's original 5 volt sensors to limit the voltage for proper operation. These new gauges are 12 volts, so they work differently. Study first if you are unsure about installation and operation. If necessary, consult OMIX Ada before installation if you are not sure. they will help you The accuracy of the fuel gauge may depend on the transmitter. Float arm replacement must be adjusted for a full tank. You want to check if the needle at E is at zero with the tank empty. I assume they have to be factory calibrated? Each gauge (gas or fuel) has a small potentiometer-like adjustment that is used to reset the gauge needle when empty for fuel or cold for temperature. They are made of silicone to prevent movement after factory calibration. They should only be adjusted using the correct method and a non-metallic (plastic) screwdriver if the zero reading is found to be out of specification. There are technical procedures for doing this on the internet, but don't try unless you are responsible for it. One day I'll try, but for now I'm glad the fuel and temp sensors are working. It should also be noted that the wiring from the sensor(s) to their transmitter must be checked for continuity and ground. Wire harness disconnect switches are usually corroded by road dirt and moisture and worse. The wire harness disconnect on the CJ models for the fuel tank sender unit near the left brake/taillight wiring was dirty/corroded on my Jeep and in my case the cause of the missing continuity. Always check the connections, they are notorious for poor connections due to the environment they are in. The guide arrangement above the fuel tank is no exception.

Pros
  • Hands Free Operation
Cons
  • Very Expensive