Received this for Christmas and only now 6 months later have I had the courage to try it. My headlights were worse than the "before" headlights on the box. My lenses were completely dark yellow and the light mechanism behind the lens was not visible at all. They were also heavily gutted. I should have taken a picture beforehand but honestly I didn't think this product would work. Spread photo"to". See the explanation as I'm really not done yet. I have previously tried following the instructions on using restoration wipes, using a dremel with toothpaste etc, rubbing with paste blah blah and nothing really worked hence my hesitance to try this product. First, full disclosure, I'm a girl. Hell yeah feminists, this matters because even though I'm a strong girl, even the weakest beer belly men on YouTube who show me how to do it have more power than I do. That's why I'm giving you girls and guys who don't want to put in a lot of effort a few tips on how to be successful. If your lenses are slightly yellowed, use the "severely damaged" directions. This will walk you through the steps for using fine-grain paper. Most YouTubers show that people only use the blue polishing pad. If your lenses are yellow, don't waste time. Proceed directly to "Heavily Damaged" instructions.2. Cover your damn car with duct tape. Yes, it's worth postponing the headlight restoration until you go to the store for the masking tape. Although, ladies, if you are a good COO of your house, you should already have a good selection of ribbons to choose from. 3. Make sure your drill is charged or you have a cordless drill. You will be working near water so use wireless if possible.4. Don't be afraid to ruin your headlight, it's already ruined. Embrace it, knowing that the worst-case scenario is that you'll be buying a new lens. Relax knowing you won't ruin your headlight. Once you've completed Step 2 of the Badly Damaged guide, you'll know everything will be fine. It took me 3 hours to get to the point you see in my photos. That's because I wasn't sure what the end of each process should look like. So let me quickly give you my opinion based on anecdotal evidence. Use the last 800 until ALL yellow haze, chips, and pitting are gone. Use muscle and strength. Yes, your lenses will be cloudy, but remember this is better than it was. (Worst-case scenario, right?) If you run your fingers over the lens, you shouldn't feel any dents, small cracks, or chips. Now the worst is over. Use the 1500 bar until you can see your real lights through the clouds. At this point you can see the swirls left by the 1500 pad because you didn't move the pad fast enough. It is in order. That's what the Bar 3000 is for. Don't forget to use the 3000 on a dry lens. Use Pad 3000 until you don't see any more swirls. There will still be haze, but it should be fine. If you're still seeing thick stains or pitting at this point, go back to 800 and fix them by following 1500 and then 3000. You're doing yourself a disservice by rushing to the buffing pad when you still have veils embedded. and scaling. The buffing pad will, I repeat, NOT remove the pitting. If you followed the steps correctly, you should end up with what is shown in Photo 1. Polishing just takes time. You'll think it won't work and you'll be stuck with cloudy lenses, but just stick with it. Keep applying the paste and rubbing it in. She really achieves her goal. What you need is photo 2. Photo 3 just shows you the contrast between polished and unpolished. I'm not even done polishing photo 2, but my drill's battery died from having to keep going back and repeating what I should have done the first time. There is also the problem of "lack of upper body strengthβ. Now I can't wait to ride in the dark. In conclusion, don't waste your time and money on "quick fixes" that produce mediocre results at best. My guess is that someone with really bad headlights like mine who can follow the directions and go through the layers fearlessly should get through the buffing stage in under half an hour.
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