It is cheap material (thick enough for costuming), but not as cheap material that I bought elsewhere. The pleats are well-pressed, and will last multiple wears. Should you see the pleats fading, it suggests tapping masking or frog tape (these tapes do not have the sticky residue of electrician's nor duct tape) on the inside of the pleats. That ought to last several years if you handwash the garment, or just reapply each time after washing.The small is not for small waists nor hips, it is meant for small breasts. As for my fellow 32A cups, this small will fit.My measurements: 26" waist, 35" bust, 32" underbust, and 35" seat.A cups - get the small if you satisfy all the other measurementsB cups - get the medium, even if you have a smaller waist and hipsB+ cups - you will never wear it if it is too tightIt surprising fit my 32A bust. However, it has a flat front clothing pattern, instead of a curve or darts for the breasts, which causes even an A cup to look like a retro bust. You can tell this from the model image. If the manufacturer was to replace the design, they ought to add curvature to the two vertical "bones" going down on each breast on a sliding scale based on the size they sell.
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