Review on 🚙 Enhance Your Ride with the Monroe 32330 Monro-Matic Plus Shock Absorber by Christopher Penn

Monroe 32330 Front was damaged. Remove the eye nut covers. Raise the front of the truck with a jack. front wheel nuts and remove the front wheels. Lift the wheel arch apron. It's like a curtain that you can lift up, you don't have to take it down or any screws or anything. Spray the top and bottom two nuts of each old shock with a liquid wrench. A small wire brush can be used to clean the threads above the top nut for easier removal. Remove the top nut from the old shock (one came loose in 20 seconds, the other had to be turned off with a disk cutter to heat it up). removed step by step). The top of the shock's threaded rod had to be held with two vises to keep it from turning. THESE SHOCKS WERE SHIPPED WITH TWO NEW UPPER NUTS. Carefully remove the two bottom nuts. You will need to REUSE the bottom two nuts on each side. You also don't want to break the bolt they're on. Move slowly, much more fluid key. Once the top nut and the two bottom nuts are off, put a couple of channel locks between the big spring and lift the old shock up so you can loosen it, then remove it by dropping it down. WARNING: Mine broke in two and leaked hydraulic fluid. Be sure to remove the old rubber parts: rubber cones and rubber hockey puck with a cone-shaped hole. You will not reuse them. Place one of the large metal washers and a new piece of hockey puck rubber onto the new damper and insert into the assembly. Install the two old bottom nuts. Maybe use some Loctite here. Place a new upper hockey puck rubber and another metal washer onto the upper stud of the new shock. You will likely find that there is insufficient threading to thread the NEW top nut. This is where the jacks come in: place a jack under the superstructure and raise it just enough so that enough of the new shock's threaded rod is sticking out over the new hockey puck top rubber piece so you can actually start the new top piece. screw. Tighten the new top nut. The top nut (on my truck) was 15-21 lb-ft; the bottom two were 30-41 lb-ft. Check the specifications of YOUR truck beforehand and use a torque wrench. The old-style large torque wrench required a deep socket and several extensions so it could rotate and not interfere with the driver's side brake lines when tightening the top nut. There is plenty of space on the passenger side. Lower the jack and replace the wheel and nuts. The nut (which has brake lines running through the area where you need to be careful) took about 1.5 hours. Took about 15 minutes on the passenger side, LOL! As always, spray the Liquid Key before you start collecting all the other tools. The longer the part is soaked in Liquid Wrench, the longer it will soak in and (maybe) the easier it will be. REAR shock absorbers on Ranger. I did this last year around August 30, 2017. The photo of my black ranger shows the new tool box I just received. It was created BEFORE the front shock absorbers came in. After I installed those front clanks up front while driving, it became MUCH less. When I hit the brakes at the stop sign, the truck no longer rocks back and forth, back and forth, back and forth. He leans forward a little and then freezes. THE BEAUTY! Good luck, watch out for the parking brake and be careful there. Mike from Detroit