the picture doesn't match. The tool I got had a tapered end that was supposed to match the taper on the flywheel. However, since this tool is not bike specific, the taper is not the same. This is quite normal if your flywheel is not causing pain. The smallest diameter at the top of the cone is all that touched my crankshaft. And it seemed to wedge into the blunt cone of my crankshaft. Do not want it. Also, it was too long for my application. The shorter, the better for transferring hammer blows. I have a Yamaha FZ1 with a problematic tapered shaft flywheel. Same as Yamaha R1. There is an 11 page discussion on the R1 forums of people trying to remove this flywheel. Like many others, I had a very frustrating uninstall experience. I tried all methods from forums, youtube etc. I started hitting, heating, hitting with a hammer. the thread of this tool will be deformed. The solution for me was to tighten the bolt about 40 ftlb and hit the hex face with a hammer from the side. I only used screws from a major hardware store as I had already disabled this tool with my percussion gun. Call or check online, not all hd stores have the same extended range of devices. I had to drive through five stores. The shorter the bolt the better, the longer the bolt is too flexible to transfer the impact. Again, mine came loose when I hit it sideways on the hex flats, not the axle. Looking back and after talking to a few mechanics. The correct way to do this is to insert the tool into the thread, tighten it slightly and tap the tool lightly with a regular hammer, then tighten a little more and then tap, repeat. And don't use a percussion gun. (meaning you have to buy that other tool, the flywheel holder, when reassembling. The Yamaha manual says just lubricate the threads with engine oil, use a new bolt (mandatory, this is a bolt that stretches on installation/ deformed, it cannot be reused. Do not start the ESC when it is disconnected from the battery!.
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