
Used 2 of them one on CR10 and one Ender3. The physical attachment to the machine and heater/thermistor is fine, but both hot ends were very difficult to get through the Capricorn Bowden tube I was using. It appears to be slightly larger than that used by Phaetus. This caused a LOT of frustration and retraction jams that caused the filament to cool above the thermal break. After much gnashing of teeth I ran the drill through the radiator where the bowden tube (with the thermal barrier removed) ends until my bowden tube was free to pass through), then I was able to find the right spot in the thermal insulator and the blocks have been working great ever since. Significantly improved quality over the teflon coated hot ends I used and I was able to lower the print temperature by almost 30°C and maintain proper flow. This has greatly reduced my stretching issues, but I still have high temperature options (more exotic materials on the horizon). I was hoping it was just the thick anodizing layer, but I had the exact same problem with block #2 on the second printer. (purchased after 2 weeks) This time I opened up the bowden tube section immediately upon initial installation and it was no problem. If your hose can't easily fit through the bottom of the radiator by hand, you could be in for a long day. Happy PrintingBradFASTRCTOOLS.COM

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