Review on 🌀 19mm - 127mm General Purpose PETUOL Mandrels by Wendy Rodriguez

Hole saws or hole saws are used to drill large diameter holes in relatively soft materials such as wood, plastic, plywood, drywall and the like. Most often they are sold in sets, which include a holder with a pilot drill and a set of interchangeable crowns. In the photo below, the holder itself. On the one hand, a guide drill is inserted into it, on it there is a flat for fastening with a screw with a hexagon head, on the other hand, a nut is screwed onto the holder, clamping the crown. The crown is put on the holder so that the cutout in its bottom falls on the slots of the holder, they do not allow the crown to scroll. In the following photo, the hole saw is assembled: The set contains 11 items packed in a plastic case: I must say that the practice of using similar cases showed their low reliability. They are solid, there are no loops between the lid and the base, and the latch is movably fastened due to the fact that the plastic is very thin at the folds. Naturally, when operating in these places, it quickly breaks off. The clasp flies off, the case falls apart into 2 halves. In the photo, the contents of the set: 1. Imbus key, (hexagon). Under the screw for fastening the guide drill. 2. 2 holders, for small and large diameter crowns. There is only one pilot drill for 2 holders. When changing the holder, it will have to be rearranged using a hexagon key: The quality of the assembly does not stand up to criticism: at the very first use, the pilot drill began to dangle, and when trying to tighten the mount with a key, its edges "slicked off”. Apparently, a traditional Chinese alloy of g ... on with plasticine was used. And it seems that the crown is badly centered relative to the drill, and when drilling it "beats” a little. From the drilled hole, the crown will not go anywhere, it goes along the drilled path, but the mount of the drill does not hold the beat. A centering drill, in principle, is only needed at the initial stage, until the crown bites into the tree. And the second case, when the depth of the crown is not enough to drill the material to the full depth and you have to drill from the other side, using the hole made by the center drill as the center. Often, a hole is also drilled on the other side in order to prevent chipping at the exit site of the crown, if it is important to preserve the appearance of the wrong surface. In order to facilitate drilling of the 35th floorboard, I carried it out in parts, gouging the drilled part of the board with a chisel, after which I continued drilling. The crown heats up quite a lot from friction against a tree, and for a not very powerful Shurik, only he was at hand, it’s easier. I forgot the adapter to the puncher for conventional drills. only he was at hand, so it's easier. I forgot the adapter to the puncher for conventional drills. only he was at hand, so it's easier. I forgot the adapter to the puncher for conventional drills. There are 8 crowns in the set, I will not list the diameters, they are on the package, the declared metal hardness is 45 HRC. In principle, a good package, but the quality clearly let us down. It just so happened that many of our companies, which are essentially engaged in the resale of Chinese products under their own "brand", are trying to increase profits by ordering what is cheaper and selling it at a higher price. Honest "China" has long been higher in quality and cheaper. Our "brands" are trying to order things that, probably, are no longer made in China itself, only on special orders from our companies from the above-mentioned alloy. Tundra, judging by this set, is one of those. They did not save only on packaging. The case is additionally packed in a cardboard box with the brand name. But he, most likely, was printed in the Middle Kingdom. I would not recommend purchasing a set.