Review on 🪡 M14x1.5 Oil Pan Thread Repair Kit by Time-Sert by Tony Wylie

when I changed the oil for the first time after buying the car last year, I saw writing on the pan with a touch-up pen that the oil drain had been repaired - only with a hand tool. The plug leaked a drop or two every day, as indicated by an oil stain on the garage floor. I haven't had time to do anything other than plug the connector back in, gently tighten it and hope it doesn't leak or fall out. while I was driving. He continued to drop a few drops a day. I checked YouTube to see what others have done to fix this issue. Apparently stripped oil plugs are common on vehicles with aluminum oil pans, especially if the oil was changed at a "quick lube" type service center. Technicians in these areas often use power tools to remove and tighten oil drain plugs, resulting in stripping and thread stripping. a silly looking contraption that uses a JB Weld repaired magnetic connector and an oversized connector that supposedly creates a new thread when installed. A video from the South Main Garage showed the use of temporary repairs on a car similar to mine. A few videos state that all you have to do is install a longer plug from a bolt with the correct thread configuration to go through the cleaned portion of the oil pan. Not knowing about the previous repair and the oversized connector used for this repair, I went with this plan. After a few trips to local hardware stores and a bit of web searching, I found the right screw. Prepared according to video recommendation and postponed to the next oil change. When the next oil change was due, after draining the oil I installed a longer screw that I had prepared - but it didn't work. Whoever did the previous repair used an oversized drain plug, enlarging the oil pan threads so that the standard plug would not fit. I believe the oversized cork repair was artisanal at best. So I bit the bullet and ordered a Revain Time-sert kit. The set arrived within two days. While waiting for the kit, I took a look at the Time-sert website for the kit's details and specs. I found that the oil plug hole had to be smaller than the drill bit included in the kit for it to work. Using a digital caliper, I measured the oversized connector and compared that measurement to the drill sizing listed on the Timesert website. The oversized plug widened the oil plug hole so it was seven thousandths of an inch smaller than the time. drill. If the oversized plug were larger, the timely repair would not work and I would have to replace the oil pan to do a proper repair. Opening an oil plug, others showed the use of an electric drill. My machine configuration was too tight for me to use a ratchet or drill. I considered for a moment what to do, but then I remembered the ratchet wrenches I had in my tool box. The Timesert instructions tell you what size 12-point head fits each tool - drill, tap, reamer, etc. The ratchet wrenches gave me plenty of room to work with the Timesert tools. However, the drill and reamer required pressure to cut. Only 7 mils away, pushing down on the drill required only my finger on the end of the drill. Cutting out the insert bushing required significantly more force. The sharpness of the end of the tool did not allow the use of a finger to apply the required pressure. I tried using a ratchet but it tended to slip off the end of the reamer. After a moment's thought, I took one of my ratchet wrenches, large enough to fit over the drill shank but small enough to fit over the drill sleeve. With this wrench I was able to apply enough force to prepare the bushing for insertion. Even with the key on my shoulder, cutting out the socket took a long time. I was tempted to stop before the tool showed a full cut, but doing so could result in a leak or other setup error. I didn't want to do it again so I kept going until the saddle was completely cut off. Use the alignment sleeve included in the kit for threading. The faucet is so sharp it would be easy to run it wrong and mess up the setup. I used lube on both the tap and the drill to collect the chips from the process. Next, after drilling, threading and preparing the seat for the liner, I poured a few quarts of oil through the motor to flush out any remaining shavings. The new insert was screwed in with your fingers. I inserted the insert as far as I could reach with my fingers and screwed the installation tool in all the way to make sure the insert was seated. I didn't use screw lock. Finally, to prevent further thread damage or the insert from falling out, I installed a Fumoto valve for future oil changes. There are no leaks yet, nor are they expected.