I installed them about a year ago so far so good. I know they experienced numerous transients and close misses that I honestly thought I was at the end of - the hair stood on end on my arms, I heard a loud pop and winced - but the pop was a discharge tube in a coax switch triggering, anyway no headphones where I dug into the skull. If that discharge tube was loud enough for me to hear through my noise-cancelling headphones, then I must have been hit by a heck of a lot of back EMF - and my NIC survived. The price is right, just make sure it's installed correctly - nothing could be simpler than scraping the paint off under the screw on your desktop computer case and applying some dielectric grease to the surge protector connector to prevent corrosion from moisture ingress and galvanic damage impede. currents, and screw that screw tight enough to put it there so it doesn't fly out while you're dusting, fiddling with cords, etc. I think one of the main problems with this is that people don't know how to install it . You want to ground it to the chassis of the device you're trying to protect, not to your water main, not to a mud-clogged pole, not to grandma's dentures - to the chassis of the device you're trying to protect, or to a ground connected through a Low inductance conductor is connected to the device you want to protect. If you buy this and install it incorrectly, ie hammering another ground rod on the outside and clamping it down with 6 AWG gauge wire, you increase the chance of damaging your equipment in the event of a transient. In residential areas you need a one-point ground - if you haven't built your house yet, in which case feel free to spend $25,000 on an equipotential plane like the one on a cell phone tower - then use the one-point theory- Grounding when designing your system. That means you have to connect everything together with the lowest possible inductance and impedance so that all potentials rise and fall together - this is how you lose stray current. We can't eliminate the voltage, but if we equalize the voltage across all devices, no current will flow at all. If you don't heed the warnings and decide you're better off installing a separate grounding rod to connect it to, the first immediate shock you get will cause the ground potential to rise (the dirt itself will get charged because the ground won't is a perfect conductor), IE - ground rod 1. When the ethernet surge cable is connected there is a potential of say hypothetically 80 volts - now that 80 volts has gone up your discrete ethernet ground rod also wants to equalize - it to the ground rod (the one on your electricity meter). The cords in your home where your devices connect to this pole because they plug into an outlet in the wall. Guess what connects "discrete ethernet grounding rod" and "household AC grounding rod"? Yes, your hardware. The ethernet port is connected to the first wand, the power plug is connected to the auxiliary wand since it is connected to the house - guess what jumpers connect the two? YOUR MOTHERBOARD AND THE INTEGRAL CIRCUITS ON IT.
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