
This looks like a decent product with some very interesting modification options but I haven't burned it yet! I bought two, a 30 amp 20 pin variant and a 24 amp 30 pin variant. I plan to put them both on the same 12" DIN rail and have 30 24 amp connectors and 15 30 amp connectors after trimming the 30 amp connector down a bit. I have included some photos so you can see other aspects of its construction. Both versions have a similar design. I wanted a 30 amp version for just a few outlets, but I don't have room for all 20 outlets so wanted to see if I could trim it down. It looks easy. The end cap is removed with two screws. The case is made of extruded plastic but looks solid enough. This makes it easy to cut. Electrical connectors are simply soldered to a PCB, which has a thick layer of solder connecting an adjacent connector, and the board is then inserted into slots in an extruded housing. Hence the aggregate is hollow. I'm not aware that neither the solder nor the PCB copper under the solder actually gets pierced up to 30 amps, but the metal clamps seem pretty good. For cases where higher amperage is present I can solder additional copper bars to the connectors or even just add a thicker layer of solder. I assume that the metal rods from the screw connectors conduct electricity over this short distance, but there is actually no other way to dissipate heat than through the wires themselves. One of the advantages of this design is that other connections or even simple circuits can actually be installed inside the housing. In my case for low current connections I need some diodes connecting different positions so I can just solder them inside and don't have to add a small PCB outside! Also, some circuits require the terminal to be tied together as a common terminal so I can do this internally rather than trying to put 3 or 4 wires into a screw terminal hole. The biggest problem with this is that the schemas are hidden, so documentation is important! Perhaps draw a diagram on the front of the device. On the other hand, there is a small gap between the screws along the entire length of the device. If he drills a small hole right between two screws, he hits a solder joint on the circuit board. At this point it would be possible to solder short circuits, diodes, etc., visible and at the same time protected by screw covers! You can see this space in the photo showing the screw heads. The electrical terminals themselves are two pieces with serrated surfaces, metal pieces, the top of which is fixed and enters the circuit board, while the other is pulled out by a screw mechanism for clamping. against the top. (It's not just a screw pushing a wire into a curved surface like some of the cheaper devices are made.) So they should be much stronger and actually be able to hold more than one wire, even a solid one. the cable. You can certainly hold a spike, but since most spikes have insulating tabs, you can't put more than one spike in a hole. There is a sharp plastic edge at the top of the hole that protrudes below the surface of the metal clip. I assume this is to bite into the wire's insulation to protect the wire from being pulled. However, with larger cables it may be necessary to press down firmly on the terminal screw to ensure the cable is properly connected. The name "DINKLE" is cast on the end plate. All in all it looks like a pretty useful screw connector. One caveat might be that the extruded plastic case might soften when it gets hot?! However, apart from the DIN terminal, everything important is built into the circuit board.

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