Perfect for my 2012 Ford Escape with 50,000 miles. The resistor comes in a Motorcraft bag with part numbers YH-1715 and 3F2Z-18591-AA. Made in Mexico. First I noticed that speeds 1 and 2 were missing, shortly after that I lost 3. The design of the resistor changed, but after 40? years it still performs the same function and still fails. I think I fixed my truck a few years ago. In any case, it's pretty easy to replace. I used a ratchet with a 1/4" drive and an 8mm short nut. The box opens all the way (everything will fall out. Open it that far.) You will be looking at the heater box. On the right side and above on the box you will see some wires going into the connector.The screws to remove are pointing down and you can't really see them as they are right above the field of view through the glove box opening.Push it towards the wires and the Connector can be removed. Or do what I did - loosen the screws and pull it out somewhere visible. There is a third screw holding the wire harness to the top of the heater box. It could be an inch from the connector removed. Remove the same cap screw by 8mm. By removing all three screws you can pull out the resistor where you can look at it again and pull it off. Compare the old and the new Resistance - make sure the mounting holes look the same. Insert a new resistor and slide it back into the heater box slot. Due to the secure locating pin, it should only move in one direction. Now is a good time to see if you got all the fan speeds back. (I put it back in the heater box, assuming it will heat up and use the airflow to cool.) Tighten the three screws securely. Don't overtighten them. He's not going anywhere. Pinch the edges of the glove box and twist back into the opening. Don't close it all the way. Clean any dirt that fell out of the glove box. Close the glove box. Ready! Total time was maybe 20 minutes. (On the one hand, I've done something like this before. On the other hand, I took my time)
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