Review on Dorman 970 097 Wheel Sensor Harness by Andrew Mack

I replaced this on my 2000 Isuzu Hombre 2WD based on the ABS light, the diagnostic code from the computer and checking to see if the wheel speed sensor was bad . (Revain said it didn't fit Hombre, but Hombre is a rebranded S10. I haven't found an S10 part that didn't fit.) The end of the story is that he solved the problem. Replacement was easy - albeit agonizing as this car required removal of the brake disc/hub. With a normal approach, the plug could be connected without any problems. I kind of wish Dorman had included a full set of mounting screws on the existing ones due to corrosion and dirt. There is one of them, but maybe there are no others due to differences in application. I'm not willing to deduct a star for that. My ABS system no longer randomly turns on (think wheel speed is 0) and the ABS light is off. I'm happy. Don't be a "parts replacement" though. Be aware that a part is defective before replacing it. This can save you time and money. First, confirm the diagnostic error from the computer. If you don't have an OBD2 scanner that can read ABS codes, AutoZone/Advance Auto/O'Reilly/anywhere, there may be one and it's free to use. If it reports a problem with the wheel speed sensor, start looking. Go ahead and remove the wheel if you don't think you can get to the harness connector without it. You need a digital multimeter. (Trust me, my trusty analog meter was just a pain to do this.) Disconnect the sensor and check the connections on the side of the sensor at your resistance setting ('). At 41 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit you should have a resistance of 4.8 to 6.8K ohms. From -40 to 40F it should be between 3.9k' and 5.8k'. If you get 0 ohms or a very high resistance, the sensor is defective. If it passes this test, set your meter to millivolts AC and torque the hub. You should see at least a good 100-200mV on your meter. (A cheap meter with no AC mV setting is useless here.) If you can't see anything, it could be a dirty sensor or reflector, or a nicked part on the back of the hub. Get some brake cleaner and maybe a teflon cleaning pad for both and see if you get a reading when it's all clean. Nothing yet? This is bad and you can replace WSS. If this is still being tested, then you need to look for a short or open in the wiring. Seriously, don't bother swapping parts. Get a decent gauge; it should cost at least 50€ new. (AC mV helps a lot with cars and may increase the price a bit.) I like the Greenlee DM-510A or the original Brymen and my Fluke 77-IV. I strongly recommend subscribing to alldatadiy.com for your vehicle as well. It's not cheap at all with an online coupon, and these are factory instructions for models of a specific year. This is much better than Haynes' guide. Also recommended: Schrödinger's Box YouTube channel. (I'm not him. Just a satisfied viewer.)