Review on 💡 SYLVANIA Dimmable Recessed Downlight for Lighting by Cool Martin

New Can Exchange: You can use these headlights for a new install, but I chose to use them to replace my existing headlights. Although there are other versions of this product where the power cords screw into the lamp. I wanted to remove the lamp entirely for two reasons: 1) Sometimes they protruded too far from the ceiling to flush fit a light source 2) So I could isolate the light. Look: I think they look great. They are state of the art and the ability to change the temperature is a huge bonus. Build Quality: These are really well made lights. They are flush mounted and cover a bit more than my existing 6" baffle. The spring clips are very good and seem sturdy. .Junction box The junction box is lightweight aluminium, not very thick, with two mounting screw holes for fixing to the rafter, a lightweight temperature selector switch and (unhinged) a door that locks with a snap latch. The only complaints are that the spring latch is quite difficult to close , if you're trying to keep a lot of extra wire in it. in the house. They work much better than any other "dimmable" lightbulb. By this I mean that at a low brightness level the dimmer gives a good low light and each (of the 5 levels) dimmer increases the amount of light by the appropriate scale. This is the best dimmable light I have ever seen. Excellent quality headlights with a dimmer that works as it should. I highly recommend them! Lamp Replacement Tips: --------------- This was a relatively easy upgrade. I didn't try to remove the "support" of the glass as that would damage my ceiling, instead I simply removed the lamp. After that you can insert the glass into the ceiling. Step 3: Put the new light in the hole. Step 4: Turn off the device if you haven't already. Simply turning off the light switch does not guarantee that the light will not get hot. Bring a voltage tester to test the lighting terminals before touching any wires. Step 5: Go to the attic, disconnect the 110v from the junction box (after checking with a voltage tester!). Remove the lantern and armored cable (leave only the junction box empty). Step 6: Fit the new junction box onto the rafter to route the light wire through and allow access to your 110 volt Romex. Fixing with two small screws (under the removable door). TIP (Try to position it so you don't have excess romex to trim) Step 7: Insert the romex into the junction box and connect using the wires provided. * (If necessary, trim the Romex before inserting it into the welder so that there is no bare wire outside in relation to the attached welders). It should be something like this, you need to fold and twist the wiring into the junction box to close it. Now you can completely insulate the area where your lamp was.