Nice design as the coolant path is completely separated from the vacuum actuator. However, the valve control stem must either be slightly longer or the bracket on the vacuum capsule/actuator must be positioned so that the capsule arm is lower on the valve control stem when in a relaxed position. It comes with a clamp to keep my hand from slipping off the bar, but my clamp was loose in my pocket. I was able to solder the clamp to the bar, which should solve the problem of the hand slipping off the bar. That wouldn't put me off buying a valve, but the design would be very easy to fix, so the stem and lever would rarely separate even without a clamp. I had an old valve on my car from a previous owner. The design was almost identical, but the location of the bracket on the old valve was such that the lever didn't naturally slide off the stem (there was no clip, but maybe it was like that when it was new). The old valve still worked, but the metal area that the side of the hose slides in corroded on the car in Central Texas with virtually no corrosion. Using the old valve as a base, I removed the vacuum chamber from the new assembly and applied a clear coating to the metal parts of the valve. This valve is normally open (without vacuum, the valve opens/closes with vacuum). It is designed for a 5/8 inch ID heater hose, so the valve size is 5/8 inch x 5/8 inch. I want them to make the same basic valve but in ¾"x ¾". On my machine, the ¾" line has a longer flex area. If you place something like this on a short section, that area can become stiff, which can put extra stress on the heater connections. Regardless of which side you close, the coolant will hear stops flowing through the heater once the valve is closed, so it's possible to place it on either port.I haven't been able to find a similar ¾" x ¾" vacuum valve anywhere.
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