Review on 🔪 Enhance Woodworking Precision with the Work Sharp WS3000 Wood Sharpener by George Johnson

This review is for the Work Sharp WS3000 wood sharpener. This is a desktop portable power tool mainly designed for sharpening wood cutting tools with flat chiseled blades, such as wood chisels, planes, etc. For manual sharpening of various tools and manual sharpening of chisels/tools of various shapes for wood lathes. end of the power cord) that powers the turntable and a fan to cool the air. Various "wheels" can be attached to the platter with the help of a "top handle" that screws into the center hole; Various grinding wheels (or simply abrasives on certain wheels) are attached to the wheels with removable adhesives, and the tool to be sharpened is then brought into contact with the rotating adhesive surface in various ways. Some wheels have adhesive on both the top and bottom, while other wheels only have adhesive on the top or bottom. The basic sharpening method is to insert a flat chisel or plane iron (blade) into an aluminum sharpener. Port" that holds the bit at the right angle to the abrasive surface, with an adjustable "fence" holding the bit securely laterally to prevent unwanted rotation, and the use of an abrasive "port" underside removes burrs from the bottom of the bit when you sharpen it, and ultimately acts as a heat sink to keep the chisel cool while sharpening.The motor fan blows cool air over the fins at the bottom of this aluminum sharpening hole.The port angle can be set to one of four fixed positions can be adjusted: 20°, 25°, 30°, and 35°; to do this, pull a spring-loaded lever to release the latch, and then move the connector until it clicks into one of the other three angular positions (the numerical value of the angle is shown in displayed in a small window.) All you have to do is perform the "dip and pull" motion a few times; DRIVING means moving the chisel in the loop created by the stop on the sharpening hole tz forward until the end of the chisel touches the rotating grinding wheel for a few seconds, and then pull back about 1 inch to allow it to separate from the abrasive. a few more seconds (allow to cool a bit) while allowing the abrasive land to remove the burr on the underside of the edge of the bit. Repeat this "dive and pull" until the noise made during the "dive" is reduced to almost complete silence. Glass grinding wheels and edge view wheels. The supplied glass panes each contain a pair of four different grits; 120, 400, 1000 and "Micro Mesh" 3600. There are also three different rim qualities for the slotted Edge View wheel. Finally, a spare grinding pad for the sharpening hole (for deburring) is included. All grinding discs have a pre-cut center hole and slots for Edge View versions. All sanding discs have a self-adhesive backing where the backing paper is removed first. The rims attach to the wheels by bending them into a tight "U" and lining up the center hole with the hole in the wheel, pressing on the bottom of the "U" until it begins to stick to the wheel, then the sides gently roll the "U" down onto the wheel surface to allow air bubbles to escape. The adhesive isn't too strong, so you can easily remove worn discs for replacement. A damaged, very dull and/or jagged chisel blade will require you to start with a 120 grit grinding wheel just to remove the bougie. Metal. They then go through grades 400, 1000 and finally grind at 3600. You can skip the coarser grades for the occasional repair of mostly sharp edges. Leather Strap Work Sharp sells a custom wheel with a leather top. Some people prefer to make the wheels for this machine themselves, using MDF wheels that they cut themselves and either glue onto adhesive discs or apply abrasive paste directly to them. You can also make your own sanding discs from regular sandpaper and attach them however you like. A typical sharpening process from a rough blade to a very sharp and ready to use blade usually involves: - First circle, rough (120) with the grit side down and the back of the chisel placed on the circle to smooth that side ( presumably you have two 1 more wheel on one glass circle and 2 less wheels on the other glass circle) so the 400 grit side should be facing up for this step. - Move the chisel to the sharpening hole and plunge and pull what's against the 120 grit on the bottom of the wheel. - Turn the wheel over and dip and pull against the 400 grit abrasive on the underside of the wheel. - Replace the glass wheels with the 1000 grit side up and insert the chisel to the rear. Underside with 1000 grit. Turn the grinding wheel upside down and hone against it in plunge and pull mode. Abrasive 3600 Micro Mesh 3600 on the bottom of the circle. - Turn the wheel over again and do a final hone on the back of the bit on the top of the wheel. There is a raised stop for the tool for manual sharpening. along one side of the turntable and you can place your tool of choice on top of the rest and then lower the edge onto the top of the grinding wheel. Use the Edge View wheel. In this case you are working from the rear of the machine, using neither the sharpening port nor the tool rest, and guiding the cutting edge of the tool under the grinding wheel to its abrasive underside. Because both the wheel and grinding wheel are slotted, the spinning wheel is largely invisible, allowing you to look down and at the tool's work surface as you sharpen, allowing you to see what you're doing and how the edge is being sharpened. arises during the grinding process. I find it useful to have good downward lighting over the Work Sharp. It's also a good idea to cover the entire edge of the bit with a black sharpie marker so it's easier to see when you've erased sections of the cut surface. Work Sharp also sells a range of accessories, one of which turns it into a belt grinder for sharpening knife blades. I find it important to mount the machine to a table or countertop because you don't want it to slip out of the way when you're trying to sharpen a tool. So far I have had very good results with this tool and I have a lifesaver. several badly worn wood chisels and a few dull chisels for wood lathes that work with them. It looks mature and solid, with lots of metal detailing. Footnote. This tool is a product of Darex of Ashland, Oregon, a family business that has been in business for over 45 years. Their website states that all of their products are designed and manufactured at their Ashland facility. I have several of their products under the Work Sharp and Drill Doctor brands and so far I have found that they have good customer service with their own staff rather than a remote call center. I think that is to be welcomed.