Review on Solenoid Control Wireless Contact T Mobile by Don Pintac

I'm not sure I've ever written a review on here but I was impressed with the money saved and felt I had to share it. Just so you know, this is not a plug and play device. It requires a little work but a lot of value. I am using this device to remotely turn the crankcase heater on and off on my airplane (RV-7A). I have a 2G device that is about to fail and needs an update. This provider (Sw_tchb_xc_ntr_l) has a 4G module. I just didn't want to pay what they asked. The competitor's 4G box is very similar, but comes with power plugs and a SIM card activated and installed. Basically, you can fully customize it when it's in front of your door. If you have one of these blocks, they will work just fine. If you're looking to save $250, this is a great option with a little work. A note is the division -A, AT&T and T-Mobile. -V (if you can find it) is Verizon. I would buy this box again in a heartbeat. Here's what you need to know: You must provide your own micro SIM card. New nano cards, but with them there are adapters for micro. I have T mobile. You need a phone to activate the card as there is no real way to get the text they send to the relay. I went to the T-Mobile store and the seller put it in my phone to activate it. $10 per card and I put $10 on the pay-as-you-go card. You must provide your own input/output pigtails. I used pigtails from my 2G module. They had LEDs to show if they had power. I liked it. But if you're skilled, no big deal. I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. PLEASE FILL IN ACCORDING TO YOUR DESIRED ELECTRICAL CODE. With that said, here's what I did. Tie the ground wires into a bundle, isolated; Neutral conductor combined in a bundle, insulated; and then connect the hot 120v to the first relay with a jumper to the second relay and then connect the hot 120v for the sockets (socket) to the normally open points. Now for the quirks: you need a 12v transformer to run the relay/cellular device and a 120v input to run your load. The competitive box uses a built-in transformer, so a mains plug will do it all. So you need two plugins. Easy with an extension cord, but still it's two power supplies. The transformer that came with mine was the straight type. 90° would be better. I doubled the wire on the connector on the board and essentially zipped it to myself (the connector) to limit the height of the loop at the top of the connector. Left alone I was afraid this would strain the connection on the board. I'd rather reject/replace the transformer. Maybe I don't care and everything will be fine. And the cable can't come out of the box if you use the 3 clips on the bottom of the box for power and 2 sockets. So Dremel made a notch in the side of the box. Tie a knot (yes, people probably cringe at that comment) to relieve the pressure. Almost exactly the same for an external antenna. If you can get by with an internal antenna, use that. The hangar has poor cell phone reception (metal box) and requires an external antenna. I'm not sure if you need a computer to set up the box or not. I just want a simple toggle on/off with text and confirmation. As I said above, it's a little work, but I would buy it again.