Okay, I must have high standards because I use multimeters every day for work (25+ years of business administration/industrial electrician/electronics technician). I've had all kinds of multimeters, mainly Fluke, but also cheaper 'brands' targeting industries like Greenlee, Ideal, Ampprobe, Klien, etc. I always buy gauges that include a true RMS value circuit because without it in any AC circuit modulated with PWM easily show wrong value, rarely wrong values can appear when many harmonics in the AC network are available. Anyway, I think it's a must. True RMS function used to be much higher prices, but in the last decade it has become commonplace even for the cheapest meters. I bought this on a whim to use with an electric RC plane and some hobby electronics that I make for fun. I rarely use anything other than DC voltage, but I use resistance, capacitance, diode test, continuity. I will have applications powered by b DC batteries with a relatively high voltage that can deliver a large current. While double checking the polarity of a 14s or 58V DC lithium polymer battery, I encountered a problem with this meter. The screen was basically just encrypted by checking the voltage. I'm pretty sure I was in DC mode and the cables were plugged into the correct outlets. I cycled the meter which didn't work, removed and put in new batteries which didn't work. The fuses are intact, not blown. Some modes seemed to work normally, but compared to a notoriously good meter, the readings weren't nearly as good. It looks like something is fried inside. I have always opened the case shortly after receiving a new meter just to see the quality. I didn't do this because I knew I would be disappointed. Now that the counter was fried I wanted to see if I could see anything obvious. Didn't see anything obvious but I have to say I was a lot more disappointed than I thought. Okay, so this is a sub $40 multimeter, but the internal circuitry is still very cheap. Minimal high voltage protection, crappy fuses, all small, the CPU has the typical black opaque epoxy coating that ruins cheap Chinese electronics by hiding the manufacturer/part number. 250VAC. This could literally cost me my life, but I think it will work for the average homeowner who needs to test car batteries and hobby dc batteries. 120/240VAC, resistance, continuity, etc. I think my mistake was "accident", no pun intended as I used it a lot and was surprised by its accuracy, especially after looking at the innards. You get what you pay for but for the average person I think it will be ok.
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