Review on 🔥 Enhanced Hotend for Creality Ender 3 Printers by Drew Panah

In order to use this hot end kit, the bed and possibly the end stops must be adjusted. For systems with ABL sensors, e.g. B. inductive/capacitive, this probably isn't a big deal, just slide it up or down the required distance. The cable tie method is probably a good way to reconfigure the sensor. With BL touch sensors, it's not that simple. If the mounting bracket cannot be moved up or down, you will need to design and print a new bracket. Otherwise the sensor will trigger too early resulting in the nozzle sticking out about 2mm or the difference in length of the Dawnblade above the bed. Perhaps there is a way to adjust this distance by reconfiguring the firmware. some work has to do with setting the correct BL touch distance. Also, I believe the nozzle is in a slightly different position than the original. This can be changed in the firmware. Haven't measured yet. In addition, the kit came in an impressive package. All parts appear to be of high quality, no burrs noticed. It's relatively easy to assemble. First you need to screw the thermal break into the heater block. A collar is provided as an end stop. Then hand-tighten the nozzle. Insert the thermal break heater block into the radiator. Use the included set screw and two 3mm screws to attach it to the heatsink. Be sure to tighten the two 3mm screws evenly to avoid tipping, do not overtighten. It's probably hard to screw up, but it's better to be safe than sorry. Then tighten the small set screw. The mounting holes of the holder match the original hotend assembly exactly. Use the old mounting screws, cartridge heater and thermistor to complete the assembly. The included case may need to be installed after a hot draw. On the Elegoo Neptune 2, you need to detach the heatsink to attach the cover as there isn't much space between the bracket and the heater block. It's like he's caught in between.