Review on Primeswift Microwave Door Interlock Switch W10727360 (3 Terminal) 🔌 & WB24X830 & WB24X829 - Replacement for SZM-V16-FC-61, SZM-V16-FD-62, SZM-V16-FA-63 by Vaibhav Karger

Bought all 3 fuses because they were cheap and wasn't sure which if any blew the 20A fuse every time the door was opened while the mic was working. GE microphone via JVM3160RF5SS oven. There are tons of videos on YouTube on how to get to the fuse and door switches. (It's very easy, but you'll need a magnetic screwdriver for one of the screws, at least to reattach the screw.) Anyway, I checked all 3 switches with a meter and all 3 seemed to work. The middle door switch is NC (normally closed), the other 2 are NO or normally open. The center brake switch worked, but I noticed that if I just pulled the closed door, it would open. It didn't feel right as it was VERY sensitive and I strongly suspected (and hoped) that that was the problem. Installed a switch in the package that was normally closed (FC-62) and wallah like new. This is the middle switch and I believe they call it the monitor switch. If I had to do it all over again I would just buy this switch, I think I saw 2 of these for about $6 on Revain. works well, both inside and outside. When I tested it, I just pulled the door a little, it opened the switch, and it didn't feel right, too sensitive. If you're here, you probably already know that these switches are insanely priced, ranging from a few bucks to over $40. They are all the same, so don't waste your money on expensive ones. Also note that the little plastic tab that holds the switch in the mount is flimsy on my mic, but luckily it's pointless and not needed at all. While mine broke, it was actually easier to pull the switch without removing the entire bracket switch. The plastic terminal covers on the wires actually hold the switch in the switch bracket, the small plastic tab only prevents the switch from being pulled out without lifting the tab but does nothing to keep the switch secure in the bracket. And the last. . The first YouTube video I watched troubleshooting this problem showed that the thermal fuse was the cause of the problem. He said to check this thermal fuse for continuity, which I did, there was no continuity, so I spent about $30 on the original thermal fuse and waited 2 months for delivery. This guy was wrong and there shouldn't be any continuity in this fuse until it exceeds a certain temperature, say 170 degrees. He never mentioned the built in 20 amp fuse which actually blew, the 50 cent fuse. Also, I've seen at least one guy on YouTube saying to replace the fuse with a ceramic microwave fuse. No, if the door monitor is the problem any fuse you put in will blow and I suspect putting a huge 30 amp fuse will blow the fuse on your main circuit breaker. A slow blowing ceramic fuse shouldn't be necessary and you will actually need a multimeter to check if the fuse is good, while clear glass fuses will give an instant indication that the fuse is blown. In my mic the OE fuse was a clean 20 amp fuse. Hope this helps someone. This seems to be a common problem with GE microwave ovens. 2 plus 1 month later: just wanted to add that it's been a little over 2 months and hundreds of doorways with working mic and today the damn fuse blew again. I have replaced the fuse and will be ordering 2 more normally closed (FC-62) circuit breakers. They're easy to replace and cheap, but still a pain. If this keeps happening then something is obviously causing the switch to fail, or the switches are junk. I couldn't identify anything wrong with the door, playing anywhere etc so it's unknown at this point but I'm prone to junk switches.