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Review on πŸ› οΈ QWORK 40 200mm Adjustable Recessed Sheetrock: Achieve Customizable Perfection with Ease! by Bim Cook

Revainrating 5 out of 5

My new favorite remedy! Understanding the direction and spacing between the blades is critical to a quality cut!

I've used this tool for 6 holes in drywall for LED waffle lights and even if I never use it again it might just be the best money I've ever paid for one spent DIY project. I spent 20+ minutes reading the instructions and setting up the blades for my first cut because I'm meticulous. Based on a few negative reviews it looks like they misadjusted the slicers. Now that I figured out the tool, it only takes a few seconds to set it up again. At first I thought the blades were weird in opposite directions. (one sharply closer to the center, the other sharply farther). Then I realized that this is the most important part of the tool because it cuts like a saw. Think of the teeth of a regular saw blade: every other tooth points in the opposite direction to remove enough material for the saw blade to fit the cut. This tool should do the same with cutting blades. I've uploaded a picture of what it looks like when the blades first make contact with the drywall - they cut the inner ring and outer ring and the blades remove the material. in between so they can sink into the cut, that's what you need! Now adjusting the distance from the center is also extremely important to get a good clean cut. Think of the two sides of the tool as an inside cut and an outside cut. Using the pointed outer tip, set the drill bit exactly to the required hole diameter, I used the square of the RPM versus the pilot bit (although you do some math and subtract the radius of the bit). Once your outer cut is set, adjust the blade so the tip is pointing inward a little closer to the center. For example, 1/32 inch closer, just a hair's breadth. Take both measurements from the inside or outside of the flashlight, not the pointed tip. This will ensure enough material is removed to install the blades. If you don't pay attention to this part, you run the risk of making the inside and outside cuts too close together and you'll have to push the tool into the material, leaving a bad cut. The inside and outside cuts can be twice the width of the cutter before you have trouble. So you want to err on this side. It just means that the piece that falls out is a hair smaller. - I think it causes a lot of confusion for some. This tool requires a pilot bit to hold it in place, so you can't drill around an existing hole. Also, the dust bag doesn't make contact with the drywall until the pilot bit has passed the material. I recommend drilling all the pilot holes first so you can start pressing the bowl against the drywall, rotate the bit, and then slowly dip into that Material. The bowl keeps your torch right in the material and the spring return is perfect for controlling plunge cutting. for them, but the value is still top notch. Feel free to buy this tool but take your time to set it up. My photos show my very first cut in the ceiling, no trial runs, and it beats most hole saws.

Pros
  • Power Tool and Hand Tool
Cons
  • Can't remember but something was