Last year, with no experience in this area, I bought a modified 3500w Power Bright Sine Wave Inverter to convert my RV from a generator to a solar powered battery. The Power Bright was a good unit for the price but performance varied with battery voltage up to 88 volts. The Power Bright unit also didn't work well with my microwave. I have come to the conclusion that I need a pure sine wave inverter. I have found that there are two types of pure sine wave inverters. Cheaper smaller tweeters. AIMS PICOGLF20W12V120VR is a low frequency inverter. Low frequency inverters have tremendous starting power. This device is designed for an inrush power of 6000 W for 20 seconds. High frequency inverters are typically designed to hold twice the power in less than a second. This unit easily starts my rooftop air conditioner which draws about 4500 watts when starting but goes down to 1200 watts when running. The difference is that this device is very heavy. It's heavy because it has a large copper-wound transformer - you get what you pay for. Why was I willing to switch from a 3500w inverter to a 2000w inverter? I have learned that there is only a certain amount of current that can be drawn from a 12 volt system without generating tremendous heat. With a continuous load of 2500 watts, my heavy welding cables and 2/0 plugs got very hot. I'd say it's impractical and potentially dangerous to get a sustained load of over 2500 watts from a 12 volt battery system (update: I used a 2/0 marine grade weld cable, tires and switches and both battery packs (200 amp ) . ), as well as an inverter (300 amps). Also, all of my 120 volt devices consistently use less than 2000 watts. Microwave oven 1200 watts. Coffee maker and toaster are about the same. Inverter voltage has dropped with battery voltage the Aims unit will maintain a good 121 VAC at 60 Hz until battery power is removed. .The connectors for the 120 volt input and output wiring are also of high quality. The indicator lights on the top of the unit are good but for my application I bought a REMOTELF remote indicator. There is also a small rheostat dial On the top you can set how much input voltage 120V AC is 70 amp full charger. I can set this to charge the generator at about 75% on a 2 hour charge). The switch is very fast and will not shed any load when switching from house power to inverter or inverter to house power. The fan is quiet and only runs under heavy loads or high loading speeds. The device consumes a significant amount of power in standby mode. It does have a power saving mode, but it works by turning off the system every second or so. The problem is that my fridge doesn't see the electricity when it decides to use electricity or gas, so it switches to gas. My other issue is that my microwave seems to have some kind of relay that clicks every time I turn on the power. It made no sense for me to use the energy saving function, so I just turn on the inverter via the remote when I need 120VAC. This device has 1 more microswitch than what is stated in the instructions. There are also two green wires dangling from the back that look like they could be connected to each other or to external wires. I had no idea what they were for other than some land. I called AIMS and the customer support was very responsive. I was told to connect them for the RV app but I still don't understand why. (Update: I've since learned a bit more about electricity and these two wires are connected to connect your 120 volt AC neutral to ground). A manual was printed and some explanations e.g. B. What are the functions of these green wires and when should they be connected or not and why. The management could have been a lot better. Just took my 4 dogs for the night in my C class with new solar panel and AIMS inverter. Found a beautiful secluded meadow on the east side of the Washington Cascades about 40 miles from home. Turned on the AIMS inverter and made some microwave popcorn (not good for you). I woke up at 5am, let the dog out, turned on AIMS and made coffee. happiness in old age.
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