Took off the old factory cracked #5 manifold as it was actually leaking. I did Sea Foam on the intake side and it pumped the smoke from the engine exhaust manifold area straight into the cabin. This is a very dangerous condition, to say the least, because you inhale exhaust fumes while driving. I was a little concerned that the new manifold would rub against the gearbox as other posts have described. This does NOT apply to the 5 cylinder Chevy Colorado. But whether there can be friction with the H-3 Hummer gearbox, I just don't know. I'm reporting an overall clearance of 1/2 plus or minus a fraction of an inch per minute from EACH CONTACT on the gearbox, slightly less on the block for the Colorado. Lots of good stuff in my book. The removal took about 1.0 hour as I had very tight/frozen bolts on the bottom flange (use lots of WD-40 or heat). The installation took about 45 minutes and was completely uncomplicated. The torque of the nine manifold-to-head bolts is only 15 lbs. The kit (NOT) included bolts for the lower exhaust flange or heat shield and gaskets for routing the upper nine-hole header to the head or lower donut. It would have been possible to reuse the old pads, but I didn't. Since the bolt attachment points were threaded, I only used screws. I happen to have the correct ones in my spare bolt basket. If you do not have the required bolts, it is recommended that you use a bolt extractor. The manifold is painted and smokes for 10-15 minutes on first start which isn't a big deal as it stops and turns a nice golden colour, whatever that means. Other reviewers said the welds were inferior. Well I can tell you they are fine and as a hobby welder they looked fully concentric and appropriate (NO leaks). It's not a custom header (check out the JTR header if you want). This is a very decent aftermarket exhaust manifold that matches the ad and is the best price I have found.
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