Review on 🚽 Fluidmaster 8300 Flush 'n Sparkle Toilet Bowl Cleaning System with Bleach Cartridge - for effective automatic cleaning by Ankur Songz

What I am about to write applies equally to this and similar products hanging from the top of the toilet bowl. First some bowl lids like on my Kohler Cimarron toilet bowl, insert protruding fingers into the bottom of the lid to center the lid and latch onto the tank. My cap pin is a long protrusion in the middle leaving gaps at both ends. Thus, in order to place the cover on the appliance's hanger, the appliance must be hung in one of these open end zones. You cannot use the left zone as the tank float takes up that space. Even if there was no finger in the middle, some inflation valve designs, such as B. the cimarron, a broad tube; This tube is not centered, it is directed backwards and occupies the middle zone. Therefore, it can only be hung in the right zone, furthest from the float assembly. The unit's suction hose is not long enough to reach the nipple on the float assembly. It's okay, I thought at first, I'll just take it off the nipple and replace it with a 10" hose, but at first it looked like the inlet hose was welded on this product; maybe the nipple is just countersunk. In the end I connected the Kohler inlet hose to this inlet hose with a 1" piece of soft tubing; just slip the two hoses into this "joint" until they meet. You'll need a larger hose than the two hoses (the should be the same diameter) to maximize water flow but the right size for a secure connection that doesn't leak. I have a DIY garage full of similar items on hand. The second problem is usually that each tank cap fits around the Thickness of the unit's suspension is slightly raised.To level it (or fix it if your tank allows you to mount the unit in the center) you need something on the back side of the tank on the other (left) side or on both ends if you are mounting in the middle). I had an unknown plastic clip in my parts box that worked great; You'll have to poke around and look for something to pry open the lid to align it. Next, for those planning to use the included pellet hopper as a permanent refill for the 1" brominating pellets used in the spa world: yes, the bottom can be pulled out very gently (you need strong, steady hands and a *small* flat blade screwdriver to remove it the first time, after which you'll need to reduce friction and grip or you risk ruining the bottom cap if you repeat the process over time gives a thin rim around the inside of the canister near the bottom opening, carefully remove it with a small razor blade or dremel, the fit stays tight but no longer "killer". And as others have posted, the notch on the side of the canister at the bottom with a 1/4" V-notch makes it easier to start the prying process by providing room to insert a screwdriver. The picture shows my installation. S You can see a long finger on the back of the cover, the black clip used as the pro masonry on the far left, and spliced pipe. A neater setup would have required me to cut the Fluidmaster hose and run the splice line straight through the back, but I chose to leave both hoses full length in case I needed to disassemble and relocate the Fluidmaster.