I have attempted to verify the integrity of this switch and have had no contact in the normally closed position (plunger fully extended). I've tried various things including stripping and inserting the wires and tightening the screws that hold the wires in place. Still no successor. Eventually I got frustrated and rewired all my circuits on the bench and eventually the light worked sometimes. When I pushed the button, the circuit was complete! Here's what they did with these switches. Under the piston is a metal plate and spring. They are attached to the button with a small screw. The plate bridges the gap between the two contacts when the ram is fully extended. At least that's how it should work. Assembly is such that a metal plate is inserted between the coils of the spring and then a screw presses it against the knob. If you think about how the feathers look, you'll notice that the coils are inclined. Pinching two coils on one side and one coil on the other caused the PCB to tilt so it only touched one of the terminals unless I pulled the knob. Plate over the top of the spring and then screw them together. The lack of spring coils across the plate made up for it and the switch works as intended. I connect the case back with hot glue. Luckily I didn't use an oversized drill when drilling the rivets, so the included mounting screws still worked. I only use it for low current 12V LED strip applications in a cabinet where there is no current. However, this is advertised for line-to-line voltages and any sparking originating from a marginal switch contact is a potential fire hazard. Use with caution.
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