🔦 Cabinet Lamp Switch with Touch Control for Wardrobes- Open on Close Door for Drawers Review

Originally I was going to give it 1 star because the holes are small. I could barely fit the 18 gauge lamp cord conductor into each hole. However, upon closer thought, a tight fit would probably help take some of the stress off of the actual internal connection.

Love it. Installed in the dressing room. Makes me smile every time I open the door. So glad I didn't go down the motion sensor/battery light trail. It would be very painful to keep changing batteries. It took extra time and a little love to install, but it's a much better life fix.

I wanted an unobtrusive switch that would turn on the light in our pantry when the door was opened. I connected the switch to a 12V power supply that powers multiple LED strings. The switch works perfectly, is easy to install and doesn't show up on the top of the door frame. The project was completed a month ago and the switch continues to work well. I'm happy!

I have a utility room that I was in desperate need of installing a light in. The problem was that it was a wide cabinet with two doors and I didn't want to install separate lights. My goal was to install a long (4ft) light and have it work with any door. They worked great, they were easy to connect, they were inexpensive, and they shipped quickly with Prime. They are connected in parallel and power a 20W LED strip.

Works as expected and required. If you are looking for a precision contact switch, pay attention to the price. If you need a simple cheap 12V/24V switch for LED lights or similar on a cabinet or closet door then this will work fine. Based on the switch I made sure I used solid core wire, assumed stranded wire would suffice but if it's just the end of a screw holding it in the switch I would prefer it to be solid, and I didn't want to tin the stranded wire to preserve durability.

There is no cut out in the door jamb to insert the switch into the jamb (door frame). The switch is compact and simple and mounts directly to the door jamb. Only the power line (power line) goes from the controlled light to the switch and back again. The only thing you need to figure out is to cover the two wires to protect them. For a switch, a half inch bare wire wire is inserted into the side of the switch and the bare wire is tightened with a screw. The same for the other wire. When the…

I have attempted to verify the integrity of this switch and have had no contact in the normally closed position (plunger fully extended). I've tried various things including stripping and inserting the wires and tightening the screws that hold the wires in place. Still no successor. Eventually I got frustrated and rewired all my circuits on the bench and eventually the light worked sometimes. When I pushed the button, the circuit was complete! Here's what they did with these switches. Under the