Review on 🔥 EBC Brakes FA174HH Disc Brake Pad Set - High Performance, Black by Antonio Edan

2007 Honda CB900F 919 Hornet. Beware. These are rear pads and I believe the "HH" at the end of the part number distinguishes the "better" pads from the "regular" pads that you might find with a similar part number but not the "HH" at the end. The rear pads went low and I found them about $10 cheaper than ALL others on Revain.com, elsewhere online or locally. $28.50. I think since then (mid July 2012) they have increased the price. Some time has passed. as i have changed brakes on every bike but ebc products seem to be everywhere and have good reviews. some pictures of the pads on the internet show a line up and down the middle of the pads but these pads do NOT have that line in reality pad. Be prepared to do some cleaning and reuse the backplates, one plastic and one metal, attached to the old pads. I've used brake fluid cleaner to clean these parts, but just regular cleaner and a toothbrush to clean the piston, spring clips, etc. Note that there is a metal clip mount on the caliper bracket that MUST be present when installing new pads. I had something sticky behind me once, but it came off and I was lucky to see it. The work is easy enough. Get a small bucket or something to store the parts. You'll also need some caliper guide pin lube and some Dot 4 brake fluid. I also use blue Loctite for the caliper bolts, just in case. Remove the slotted screw from the caliper that hides the hex head behind the pin that holds the pads in place, then loosen the rear pad retention pin. I did this while the caliper was still attached to the bike. Then remove the caliper bolts and caliper. At this point I loosened the brake reservoir cap and used a flathead screwdriver to gently and gently push the piston back into the caliper. Luckily no 'extra' liquid has been previously added so there is no liquid overflow as if you were adding liquid when the pads wear out. Then I cleaned all the parts etc and fitted the plastic and metal parts that were attached to the old pads with the new ones. I lubricated the caliper bolts with caliper bolt grease and applied Loctite blue to each threaded end. I then placed the new pads in the caliper and slid it onto the rotor, making sure the front of each pad was seated properly against the front bracket and this metal clip. You can easily see if they are there just by looking from both sides. I know there is a tightening spec for bolts and such, but I can't find it right now, sorry. I just made mine by feel. After everything was sealed I attached my new CTA Tools 1250 One Man Brake Bleed Kit (you can also get this product locally for about the same price as online) to the bleed and used some Valvoline Dot Brake Fluid 4 (This is Vor only Location available with point 4 and point 3 markings. I checked the Valvoline website and the specs seem to exceed the manufacturer's requirements.) Clean and bleed the rear brake until the fluid is clear. It is so transparent that it can hardly be seen in the reservoir. Researching on the internet I came across a video, EBC I believe, that mentioned NOT to overfill the brake fluid reservoir as this could result in loss of braking power. I've personally never heard of this BUT to be on the safe side I made sure the top of the liquid was ONLY at the top fill line in the reservoir. The EBC website says you'll get a few hundred miles of rest. I can only imagine how much BETTER the brakes will be once they are broken in because they work a hundred times better than the old pads! Be careful from the start in case something goes wrong and check back after a kilometer or two.