
I didn't even get to the point where I could figure out if this material would help my use case. Two types of applicators come with this item and both are junk. The first is a plastic stick with a cotton sock on one end, and the manufacturer didn't even bother (or maybe not with common sense) to glue the sock. They call this youthful prank the "lint-free applicator." After pressing about 3 buttons the sock started to slip off and I had to decide between just throwing it away or putting silver soaked glue on all my fingers. go almost anywhere, but wherever I had to - that was my first sign of trouble. Instead of applying silver ink to a black carbon bead, the cotton was simply pressed against the roller (which didn't carry any silver material) and then the exposed edges touched, depositing a lot of conductive crap around the inside of the rubber dome (which the carbon bead sits on the inside of). ) and especially around the outer parts of the rubber base. The concrete blank is a long strip of rubber with a few dozen tiny rubber dome switches mounted so that the centers of the carbon pads are just a millimeter apart, meaning every point of contact is now connected to every other. While trying to peel it off, I found another joke the makers put in the package: a sandwich toothpick (sharp on one end and flat on the other) with a tiny piece of thin cotton swab loosely wrapped around the pointed end. Wrapped: Not tied, not glued, not even attached to a recess in the tree. So I cleaned up a bit, dipping the pick in alcohol every few hits, and the first time I tried wiping the silvery dirt off with a paper towel, the cotton just came off and I had a sandwich. Toothpick. I had to finish the job with a combination of real cotton swabs, some more durable/medical grade cotton swabs, and some plain old kitchen toothpicks. As it turns out, rather than wiping or painting the pad of carbon and forming a roll on it, your best bet is to take a tiny piece of silver from the bottle on the end of a really sharp toothpick and just let it drain from the toothpick. above - after a few minutes you can take a clean toothpick, pick up the excess and move the remaining puddle as needed. Cleaning is best done with old plain grocery store cotton swabs soaked in alcohol (I use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, but I think regular drugstore alcohol works just as well). If you let the silvery mass dry it will easily separate from the rubber and remain a single piece, but it takes attention to detail (and I needed a good magnifying glass) to make sure what you're peeling off isn't related to what you are do. want to leave behind, otherwise you'll just go back to where you started. A little scraping with a sharp toothpick can help separate the puddles. I'm a bit skeptical that this material will bond well to a carbon gasket after curing for the maximum recommended "hours or days" as very thin layers will easily peel off after a minimum of "15-30 minutes" of curing . Dry. I'll update this review as I see if and how well the Goop actually works for its intended purpose. However, if you buy it, be aware that whoever does this is either an idiot or a real idiot, as they put applicator elements in the box that are intentionally designed to sabotage your work. Update for a heal in a few days, and Build: Silver Bulk seems to be doing the job pretty well. It will be weeks or months before I know if it will stay on the carbon pad or fall off with regular use.

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