Review on 🔧 Spicer 5-1410X U-Joint Kit 1410/SPL36 Series (OSR): High-Performance Universal Joint Kit for Unmatched Durability by Don Devine

Factory quality! DO NOT ADD LUBRICANT! The grease they come with from the factory is sufficient and used properly for proper lubrication. Make sure your caps are fully snapped onto your collar and the hinge rotates freely and smoothly once installed! Tapping the end cap lightly in either direction will decrease the preload on the end cap bearings. It's a little tricky with the rear pivot when you install it, but the key is to make sure the fork is completely free of rust and debris. A small piece of dirt between the cap and yoke is enough to reduce the torque as it won't sit straight and once the dirt shifts or gets worse over time the belt bolts will take that leeway and loosen under the required torque, to keep the caps from free spins. Sounds weird, but it happens! You are dealing with microns and the average size of a dirt particle is larger than the free play of the bearing caps. Over time this will start to rub against the straps and yoke. This further reduces the preload on the belt and bearings, leading to catastrophic failure. Take the time to get it right the first time. Second, take the extra time to ensure the forks holding the caps to the driveshaft are completely free of rust or dirt. Clean the ridges of the terminals and use an Emory cloth or Emory paper (fine grit) to buff the inside of the terminals before attempting to hammer in or press the caps, BEING VERY careful not to remove any surface imperfections. DON'T DO MUCH! Remember that the caps should NOT slide freely. If this is the case, your fork needs to be replaced or you have the wrong gimbals. If they slide freely they will NOT as the holding power is insufficient to keep the end caps from moving and rotating relative to the belt and yoke which will quickly wear out in both parts. To choose the right clamps, install a set, gently tap the caps in any direction, and find the "sweet spot" in the movement of the joint. The joint should move by hand with about 4-5 pounds of pressure. When the joint moves freely, switch to the next size clip. If the hinge does not move in either direction even after sealing the caps, decrease the size to avoid premature wear of the bearings and the cap's inner urethane bushings. With that all said and done, you've set the joints. Use brake cleaner to clean the ends of the caps and retaining clips. Dry thoroughly with compressed air. Clear again. Dry again. Spray paint on the ends of the caps so that the paint gets a little into the grooves of the clips. This will help isolate moisture, prevent corrosion and will hold the clamps in place and prevent them from rotating. Allow this paint to dry for ten minutes and then apply another thick coat, being careful not to overspray the u-joint seals. Painting seals or spraying them with petroleum distillates such as WD will result in rapid premature failure. Hope this helps someone in the DIY world! Now go inside, stretch your left hand out the window, point your index finger up and then forward, point it back up and forward again in quick succession. Hold the skinny pedal to the right, your rig between the trenches, and I'll go east and down! For your health!