This turned out to be an unexpected gem. I have an existing 135" Elite Motorized Screen MaxWhite (gain 1.1) which is absolutely horrible unless I can make my living room pitch black, which is just really late since I have a vaulted ceiling with windows , where I can not hang curtains . I've been playing around with Elite Screen's Cinegrey 3D and 5D materials for the day/night screen and decided to try this instead as a cheaper option to familiarize myself with the ALR material. I like it more than the famous Cinegrey 3D and 5D. Despite being very close to 3D, it sacrifices a bit of contrast for lots of shadow detail, which I think is a much better compromise than Cinegrey 3D. If you prefer deeper blacks to shadow detail, choose 3D or 5D. The main downside is that this is NOT a 120-inch 16:9 screen footage, despite the ads. It's a 4:3 material, which means I have it 99.5" wide and 59" tall. So the maximum possible 16:9 aspect ratio is 114 inches, which if you leave enough room for the edges of the tape, results in a more realistic 111 inch screen with a 16:9 aspect ratio. The material is very hard and wrinkled. but with steam on a gentle setting (be very careful and quick) you can remove most wrinkles. It still leaves some traces of lines visible in white scenes but rare in most shots. high quality black tape and gradually stretched the material over 3 laps, improving with each lap. I used a primed 97" x 1.5" board for the frame and used edge clamps to attach it. Most don't understand how ALR works, so I'll add these notes: 1. ALR is for ambient light rejection (AL Rejection), not direct light, so it won't do you any good. It is good if direct light falls on it from any direction. Also, strong light sources coming from the side of the projector will not reflect well either.2. The ALR has a cone of view - this is typically 40 degrees (typically 4045, total cone angle 8090). The larger the screen you build with ALR material, the more light falloff you'll notice when looking off-center. If you look at the screen from the same angle that the projector light hits the screen, you will see many hot spots or glare. This is because ALR uses metallic colors to "amplify" the light falling on it (it doesn't actually do it, but it is felt when it is perceived). Your projector should be angled slightly higher (but not too high) than your viewing plane, with the center of the screen somewhere between your viewing plane and the height of the projector, to get the best contrast and avoid hotspots in your viewing. Be prepared to experiment with the best placement to avoid hotspots. Update 2/4/2021: 1. I have an Epson 6040UB which is known for its contrast ratio so your mileage may vary. As other reviews have noted, it's likely canvas material, meaning the 40 degree view is conservative. As you can see in the angled image I've attached, the rolloff isn't as sharp as you might see with the other gray ALR stock. I used another 80" screen from this footage to create a second smaller frame and placed it next to the existing ones to create a 122" wide CinemaScope screen with a 2:39:1 aspect ratio . Center. Much better than 3D or 5D which have significant light falloff at the edges.3. I haven't used this material for a portable screen and I suspect it might be ok if you're willing to accept some creases (after ironing) as a compromise to increase contrast. This material is more like polyester fabric (like in shirts) than 3D/5D which is a more "elastic" "rubber" vinyl fabric. Due to the use of metallic paint I would expect permanent (sharp) creases to wear down the paint over time. Instead, try rolling it into a tube to carry around.4. I contacted the seller and he said he expects 16:9 footage next month. I also requested 135" 16:9 (120" x 70") material and they said they had plans for this in 3 months time. material.5. Some of the attached photos were taken while I was still doing this Stretching material so you can see some large creases.I managed to remove almost everything when I was done as you can see in the other photos (the taped back pic and the red jacket pic picked up before I had finished putting them on). Feel free to use considerable force (gently) until the creases go away, as this material can take quite a bit of strain. A little force. In this case, duct tape comes in very handy as you attach one open end to the screen material and then tighten before attaching the other open end of the strap to the frame.For best results, first stretch the edges of the screen to avoid creases at the edges, then make d Then do the same along each fold line (in both directions), then apply the finishing touches between the lines.
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