Review on 🚲 Seatpost Dropper Remote Lever: Ergonomic and Durable Aluminum Alloy Mountain Bike Shifter (22.2mm Red) by Michael Langelius

I didn't like this lever at first. It's a little unnatural to reach down with your thumb and push down parallel to the handlebars instead of just jerking down perpendicular to the handlebars like most other levers. Also, the lever doesn't always snap back quickly like it does on regular rounds, so you tend to flip it back under the lever with your thumb. This can be distracting when you're going downhill and need to focus on the much more important things happening on the course. However, this leverage has two major advantages. Firstly, because the end of the cable is attached to the lever with a washer and screw, you can place the ball end on the drip column itself, and not the other way around. If you haven't installed the post dropper yet, let me explain. At one end of the shifter/tipper cable (they are the same) there is a flat shaped ball at the end that helps to "pull" something, e.g. the shifter, the dropper arm, or the actuation of the dropper itself. Three main types of cable link drip supports: top link (ball goes on the lever, end goes over the support), middle link (the ball gets plugged onto the center drive unit of the dropper post, the cable is attached to the lever) and to the bottom linkage (similar to the above, ball on the dropper, except for the bottom part, the cable is attached to the lever). All can have the internal routing of the cable itself through the frame, but the first and second require an external connection to either the open side of the cable or the ball side of the cable to attach the cable to the dropper. The first two can be internal or external routing. The third MUST be wired internally as the dropper release mechanism is located at the bottom of the post inside the frame. Avoid the first (top cable); middle and bottom cable clamps are better because the cable will never loosen because there is a cable ball instead of some other securing element like cable clamp, dumbbell ball with screw, etc. The first type of dropper requires a cable ball on the lever, so round levers work well for this. The last two types require a cable ball on the dropper post itself, and that's where that leverage comes in to easily attach the other end of the cable with a simple washer and screw. It's simple, it's clean, make sure you fasten it lightly first, pull down to remove any remaining slack in the cable, then unscrew both fasteners, pull the cable firmly, fasten a second time more firmly and then cut off the excess cable 1 -2 cm after it is secured points. It's a lot easier to do this at the end of the lever than twisting the end of the cable on the drip column, trust me. The 2nd big advantage as I understood after yesterday's accident: this lever has everything in the steering wheel as it is on your side of the steering wheel and not like many round levers outside. When I crashed, the round arm I was still trying on the bike had a metal L-shaped connector on the outside of the handlebars (facing the front wheel) for the cable housing. When it hit the dirt, the black plastic cap between the end of the shifter housing and the L-shaped lever connector snapped off. The post still worked, but of course I had to fix it later in my garage. After fiddling with the original cable and lever for about 45 minutes, I gave up and installed the second one on my second bike. A piece of cake. Should have done that sooner! This is much easier than screwing on a second ball/barbell on the lever side as the shifter ball is already used at the end of the dropper. Now you just use the bead of the cord on the dropper and simply mount the other end of the cord on this arm. Leverage isn't instant, no rewards are won, but it works and has real practical benefits.