Review on 🖥️ Thermaltake Tower 100 - Black Edition Mini Tower Computer Chassis with Tempered Glass and USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C Support for Mini-ITX - CA-1R3-00S1WN-00 by David Reyes

****LEVEL 20 HT REVIEW**** First of all I hate it when reviews combine multiple products, so I want to clarify that this is for the Level 20 HT case. First of all the case is awesome and I'll update this review with some good photos once I've finished my custom loop. It remains to wait for the water block for the GPU. Build quality is excellent, just what I've come to expect from Thermaltake. The case is sturdy and roomy, with plenty of room for custom cooling and lighting. Cables are pretty easy to manage as there is a lot of space behind the motherboard. There could be some improvements to the airflow, and I had to make small tweaks to the body to allow me to ride my hardline where I wanted. I'll do my best to cover these topics, but let's list what I'm working with: - HT Level 20 Black Case - Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite Wifi Motherboard - AMD Ryzen 9 5900X - G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB (2nd Gen). x 16GB) CL16 - Gigabyte RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra (on the way) - EKWB water block or Alphacool FTW3 if equipped - Thermaltake Toughpower 850W - Thermaltake Pacific W4 ARGB water block - Thermaltake 360mm x 26mm copper heatsink - Thermaltake 360 copper heatsink mm x 64mm thick - Thermaltake Pacific D5 300ml pump/reservoir - 16mm rigid PETG tubing + various connectors - bundle of ARGB fans 2012) and I had to learn a lot and do a lot of extra shopping (similar to running to the hardware store 5 times). a simple project) but in the end I like how it turned out. Here are some of the problems I encountered: Radiator side still tubes. There is a compartment where you can install a heatsink and side-mounted fans. The heatsink filler holes are almost in the right place for the top or bottom notch in the rail to the right of the motherboard. For a 90 degree connection, 5mm tubing is not long enough for the tubing to fit flush through one of these slots. So I had to nap and cut an extra 5mm notch to allow the pipe to pass through easily. I hate cutting up the hull but this was an easy and quick fix for what I was doing. The 12V rail on the motherboard is not in the best position. When connecting the 12V rail to the motherboard there weren't really any good ways to really hide the cable as the closest grommet was underneath the motherboard in the middle of the rail on the right. However, there is a large clear space behind the motherboard, and it's high enough to allow the cable (not the connector) to be routed back directly to the 12V connector behind the motherboard. So I unscrewed the motherboard, passed the cable through and screwed it down the motherboard snaps into place. Now I could connect the 12V rail and the cable was gone immediately. I also did the same with some of the fan controls since the connector was in the same area. Airflow First we need to understand how air enters and where it exits. There are two designated areas for air to enter from the bottom of the case, in front of the motherboard and behind the motherboard. At the front you would mount the radiator (which I did). Air can also be drawn in from the tempered glass front panel and rear panel, where two 140mm fans can be installed. Finally, air can exit the system through the top of the case, where two 140mm fans (the only fans that ship with the case) reside in the front and rear bays. When the glass is closed, air is forced through two grilles, exactly the same as those on the front of the case. First problem: exhaust. The fans blow directly into the glass at the top, and the plastic grilles on the sides restrict the airflow too much. To solve the problem of the exhaust fans not getting enough air, I simply put the end of the glass lid up where it closes. Just like some solar roofs on cars are slanted. This allowed the fans to really work and dissipate heat. The second problem is the air supply. I opted for a thick heatsink in the front with fans mounted on top to let air through. Can you lay it on its side and push the air out at the back? I sincerely think this might be the best solution if you're worried about insufficient cooling, since the grilles on the front of the case allow you to get more air from more sources. I found that only fans on top didn't provide good airflow, so I ended up using more for a two-stroke scenario. However, a side-mount radiator will not have a good air intake no matter how you cut it unless you remove the side panel. It just sucks in air everywhere. Third question: carpet. Solution - don't put it on the carpet! Air duct needed! Fourth problem: USB on the front panel only on one side. I just wish they were on both sides. All in all, I really like this case. It's easy to use, offers plenty of space, and is a great showcase for custom settings.