Review on ArtMolds High-Grade Copper Powder: Effortless Cold Casting with Polyurethane Resin for Stunning Sculptures, Home & Office Decor - 1lb/350 Mesh by Morgan Gilmore

I use this for a slight variation on "cold cast" - mixing with epoxy to fill knots, wormholes and crevices (a type of stress based crevice or crack) in woodworking, particularly honey mesquite and walnut just now. At first I was a little unsure about this. I've tried "Mona Lisa" copper metal powder before, which appears much finer-grained and brighter (shiny penny copper vs. darker tan), I think more for "hunting" type applications. But this powder mixes with the epoxy much more easily without trying to deflate at the slightest movement. At first the mixture turned a rather intimidating dark brown color - almost like chocolate if you use 4 very small scoops (maybe 1/8 teaspoon each?) per 20ml of mixed epoxy (I use System Three's T-88). But after sanding, smoothing with 100 grit sandpaper, then working on my usual wood finish scale of 150 and 220 and then lightly sanding just the metal filled areas with 320, 400 and 600 grit. Exactly the finish that I have searched The brightness has increased and it looks like the metal has lived right into the wood. After that last buff, apply a clear finish (at least the first coat - I use Pratt and Whitney #38, which practically does not yellow, diluted about 30-50% more with mineral spirits to "wipe off") fairly quickly after that last buff. Varnish" which takes 4-5 coats before it really covers the surface of the wood and doesn't cure "into it"), and I suspect the brightness will remain protected from future oxidation, although only time will tell. Mona Lisa powder is grainier (although still very fine), it "soaks" into the epoxy more easily and doesn't run, and it's a lot cheaper than the tiny 1-ounce jars I've tried before. Done, I might add a photo or two.A couple of tips if you're into something like this - suggest for really big knots "layer" a part fill of clear or even brown or black epoxy, then a mix of copper, alternately if you're bagging a lot a big knot and you have to keep touching it up to get back to the wood finish you want.A heat gun also helps to reduce viscosity and get air bubbles out (don't overdo it - just heat it, b is you will see that it flows more clearly, as if the surface tension had released from the edges, you will regret it).