Review on 🔪 Convenient and Efficient - Double-hole Tub Pencil Sharpener (1 Pack) by Nicole Mcleod

Ever since I've delved into the world of colored pencils, I've become aware of a problem most people don't know about: pencil sharpener technology is, quite frankly, pretty terrible. In my earlier world of occasional use of the #2 pencil, I had nothing to complain about when it came to sharpeners, the crayons were quick to show the flaws and imperfections of that range. On the one hand, there is a lot at stake. A good pencil can cost $1.75 to $2, so a broken tip from bad sharpening is real money. Excessive sharpening is no less dangerous when the sharpener eats the pencil down to the thread. That's how my search began. Also, a hand sharpener (or a very long extension cord) is required to work in the field, which I prefer. The world of electric pencil sharpeners is bad, but not nearly as bad as the world of portable devices. This realization was a revelation for me. Like many people, I thought all sharpeners were the same. Manual sharpener technology is absurdly simple: a plastic cone touches the razor blade. So how can there be a difference? I soon realized it was them. Manufacturing tolerance of the taper is important, but even more important is the quality and position of the blade. At first I thought battery powered devices would be the solution. The technology is identical for most of these devices, the rotating razor blade is battery operated, as are the results. I have used a Foray brand laptop which is considered a great device but is terrible to me. I also haven't used any other name with the same bad results. To be clear, there are three types of bad results. First, the blade just doesn't sharpen enough. About 20% of the sharpeners I've tried fail this simple test. Either the blade wasn't sharp enough or the spine was deformed. The second major problem is collapse. That's the worst result of sticking a dull pencil in the sharpener, only to have the dull tip turn into a broken tip—a complete disaster that requires reshaping the pencil's ink and losing about a sixteenth or more of the tip. Pigment. The third problem is oversharpening. Fine sharpeners tend to cut off part of the tip, making it very sharp and extremely brittle. That's not good either, as using a pencil with any pressure (inevitable when drawing with crayons) will result in catastrophic collapse. Enter Stadtler. It's solidly built with amazing weight. There are two holes that form points with different slopes. A hole marked with graphite forms the well-known 23* slope. The other, marked with paint and graphite, gives a thicker 30* tipping point. The latter is preferred for colored pencils because the thicker tip is more break-resistant. Sharpening blunt pencils (I have yet to try that with unsharpened pencils) is very easy. The graphite slot fits the pen like a glove. A few twists, much less than other sharpeners, yields a super-sharp, perfectly symmetrical tip. The color slot has some play as it can also be used with thicker pens. Nevertheless, it also sharpens in a few turns and without much effort. The result is an ultra-sharp, ultra-reliable broad tip. After sharpening about 15 blunt colored pencils I had no problems. Sharpening about 10 graphite pencils gave the same results. Simply put, this is the best sharpener I own and more importantly the best I've ever used out of 20+ sharpener models. Especially if you use colored or art pencils, you should buy this one. This pays dividends in terms of reducing wasted pens in the shirt order. You can't do better.