Review on 🔧 Catazer Wheel Truing Stand: Bicycle Rim Adjustment Tool for MTB, Road, BMX Bikes - Professional Wheelset Repair Equipment by Mike Palma

As I found out after purchasing this straightening stand, it doesn't have the rigidity needed to use clockwork indicators. So better buy a cheaper and stiffer non-clock type display. Stands and adding dial gauges. Read on and I'll share what I've learned about leveling stands by buying this stand and trying to make it work. First, understand that the benefit of a dial gauge calibration stand is faster wheel alignment and the ability to quantify how right you are. your wheel. You can get your wheels with a fork tie indicator as well, but it will take longer. As a general rule, as long as your rim isn't warped, you can expect your wheels to align to within +/- 0.15mm (0.006 inch) without too much trouble. Here's how this should work with a dial indicator straightener: set the wheel and zero. Dial indicator on the valve opening. Remove and rotate wheel, reinstall and measure valve bore again. Halfway between your first and second reading is your true target value, or zero. Between two readings, zero the dial and then zero the wheel and it will also be perfectly curved. This target value allows you to adjust each spoke as you spin the wheel, rather than the old method of adjusting with an indicator stick, which only adjusts most of the true part of the wheel. It is also not necessary to drive the rim into the correct pool after straightening the wheel, since you can set the pool correctly with the help of the dial gauges. This is how you save time with dial gauges. To determine if a dial indicator display stand is suitable, it must be rigid and repeatable. I suggest the following test: put the wheel in place, make sure the axle is properly seated in the fork, align the rim so the valve hole lines up with the dial indicator, zero the dial indicator to the valve hole and put a splash of color on the fork. Axis at 12 o'clock. Remove and replace the wheel and put it in the same position as it was (at the valve hole, do not flip, same axle orientation). If the stand is OK, the dial gauge returns consistently within +/- 0.4mm. Repeat this test several times. The value of 0.4mm (0.015 inch) is my estimate of the maximum error. The more variation and fiddling with the tripod to get reproducible readings, the longer the adjustment process will take and the more dissatisfied you will be. The pitch of the linear bearing increases by the length of the fork arm. The fork blades have approximately 10mm of fore and aft movement on each blade from the linear bearing tilt. Also, the fork blades flex and the dial gauges are attached to another shaky arm. Slight adjustment of the fork width arm causes wild movement on the dial indicator, so you're always weighing how hard you tighten the knob to decrease fork rake and still be able to consistently remove and replace the wheel so you can see the dial indicators can set to zero. The best design for a dial indicator stand is to have a fixed, very rigid fork blade with dial indicators on one rigid, fixed blade and the other fork blade is adjustable. The manufacturer could save money by getting rid of this pitchfork width adjustment system. Think of the P&K Lie or Park TS-8 as two racks built on this principle. In the end I decided that this rack had fatal flaws and at this price point it would take too much work to remake. Instead, I chose to add TS-8 sensors to the park, which I feel require less effort to rebuild. For those who have this stand, I have the following recommendations: For more reproducible results, do not overtighten the eccentric (on any suitable stand). Use the tension knob to tighten the hub a little, then don't touch it. You can remove the wheel without turning it. You can put numbers on the tension knob to make it easier to set the same tension every time. Metal indicator tips rubbing against aluminum rims will drive you insane with their scratching. Plastic or wooden tips should be placed on the turn signals to reduce noise. Roller tips are available but are expensive, and wooden or plastic tips work great at low speeds when dressing wheels.