Review on 🔦 BEAMTECH H7 LED Bulb, 8000LM 40W Fanless CSP Y19 Chips 6500K Xenon White Super Bright Conversion Kit Ultra Thin All-In-One Halogen Replacement with Enhanced SEO by Tai Wiest

I installed them as high and low beams on my Mercedes Sprinter (2016). They fit into the dust cover without any modifications to the case. It took some research to find the right adapters! No one seems to be selling adapters specifically for this car. High beam clamps are part number B07Q7WQ3SG which you simply install by rotating the alignment tab 180 degrees. The low beam adapter, part number B07N83PWDY, requires MUCH more work. This lamp assembly has a completely different connection to the headlamp housing and the heatsink of this lamp touches the connector. If you want to remove the electrical connectors from the adapter and plug them into the factory wiring, they will work. These lamps are much brighter than factory halogen lamps and can be easily rotated to give a good, flicker-free beam pattern. The only problem is that every time I start the car I get a low beam and high beam error message on the dashboard, both of which incorrectly indicate that the bulb is burned out because it's not drawing enough current to run the computer to power it. [Cm. see other comments on false warnings and how to fix them.] PS: I've compared them to a similar product, ref B082HPGKKF, which has 4 stacked LED elements instead of 3. The Globled lamp was less focused and less uniform, certainly not brighter. Buy Beamtech one! UPDATE FOR 3 MONTHS: The dealer provided "decoders” (which I have confirmed are parallel 10,000uF capacitors to reduce noise in the wiring) free of charge and upon request, which were the wrong ones Didn't fix dashboard warnings of my Sprinter about lamp failures. The seller then supplied 8 ohm terminators which eliminated the warnings on the dash but worked so hard it was clear they needed to be installed on a real radiator. There were no installation instructions, but they will burn your fingers after a few minutes of operation, so I assume they will melt the insulation on the wires in an enclosed space. My Sprinter has a dust cover around the back of the lamp reflectors and all wiring needs to be routed into this sealed cover. They work without warning if you get the chance to install resistors, but they use as much current as your old halogen headlights just to tell the dash that something is connected. See the last two photos for a comparison of this 21W. Lamps without a fan compared to 33W lamps with a fan. Higher power tubes are brighter, but the thick pole casts a very dark shadow, so the radiation pattern isn't as clean. This item (8000 lumens, 21 watts) has the best sample I have found. ONE FINAL NOTE: My Sprinter needs to see at least 3 amps of current for each headlight bulb or it will think the bulb has gone out. They consume 1.6 A (21 W). To suppress the dash warning you need an additional 1.4 amps, so 8.5 ohms at 12V. The included 8 ohm resistor is "just right" - it needs to generate heat to work!