Other brake lubes claim to be safe on plastic and rubber but will degrade non-metals over time. That's the safest. I will not use anything other than plastic or rubber, including piston boots and guides/caps/pen housings. I've used others that are labeled safe for rubber and plastic, but have encountered dangerous degradation of the socket that the stylus slides through. Then I saw numerous forum posts about various Mercedes and BMW models having horrible sticky plastic/rubber decomposition with other "safe" lubricants. " - it's perfect for many other uses, but if it doesn't say "Brake" then it's not designed to withstand heat, friction and compression and it will eventually melt/leak - possibly on braking surfaces and definitely where needed I still use ceramic or copper paste which is more resistant to pressure in metal to metal areas away from rubber or plastic I also use a very thin coat of sticky red CRC brake fluid on the back You just have to make sure it's thin and you don't scratch the back of the plunger when you put it in so you don't wind sticky material onto the rubber boot.Finally I apply a very thin coat of silver anti-seize to the surface of the Jack on - I apply a very thin coat, then even wipe most of it off and be very careful keeping it off the lug holes and other surfaces. Yes, these are four different things, but you save one "braking pass". te" is not worth it: you have to return to quiet the squeak; hit the disc and pull out the flare for the next job; dangerous contamination of the braking surfaces; it is dangerous to hack the action of the brakes; or the piston seal dangerous However, if I had to choose a lube to do the brake work, I would really polish the hub surface and the wheel surface, and I would use this lube conservatively in all four cases, as it doesn't help cause any of the dangerous situations if you use it correctly use.
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