This is the "industry standard" in construction, at least where I've worked. My last stapler lasted 18 years and was still working when it was stolen. I've had this replacement for three years now and it worked just as well as the previous one. First, for those who can't figure out how to charge it - there's a clip on the bottom of the handle that you press down on, push slightly, then a spring pushes it out of the handle. Insert the shackle's clip (pointing in the right direction), then reinsert the rod and fasten! Second, if you bang your knuckles on the counter, you're doing something wrong. Keep your hand parallel or at a slight angle to the work surface and flex your wrist. The end of the hammer hits the wood and the strut goes into the wood. You don't have to hit hard as the weight of the tool is enough to drive the strut in. Third, if your staples don't go deep enough, you may be using the wrong length of staple. Of course, you should always read and follow the manufacturer's installation instructions as they will usually tell you which mounts to use. I typically use the Arrow T-50: 5/16" staples for the felt insulation, 3/8" staples for underlay are fine if you want to quickly sheath singles or side panels. Fourth, as with all tools and things. Moving parts require lubrication and maintenance from time to time. I have found that a quick spray of Boeshield T-9 a few times a year keeps these tools rust free and lubricated without the dust and dirt clinging to them like WD-40 does.