I'm writing this review after six rides with these heated grips at 35-65F. These grips are excellent. , Period. They also have great value compared to other brands. I chose this model for the price, the ease of installation, the fully integrated unit that can be replaced with original handles and the small and simple controller. I hate the look of other models with huge controllers and lots of distracting LCD screens or LED displays. It's easy and gets the job done. Specifications: My "offline" tests with a 12V switching power supply showed a consumption of 2.5A, so at 12V this is 30W. Others state that they are rated at around 3 amps, what maybe that's what you get from a battery. The fuse in the cable is rated at 4A. There are no official specs, but it's a good idea to allow around 3-4A on your bike. With the engine running and the alternator charging the battery you will see something close to 14V which is 36W. The buttons get up to 160F at their highest temperature, and lower settings use PWM (basically turning on and off quickly) to modulate the heat. Heat: Great! Warming up takes a few minutes. Other people note that at the highest temperature, the heat is unbearable. It might be true with bare hands, but in my experience it wasn't the case with gloves. At the same time, on a 60 degree day, the hottest conditions were uncomfortable. Even on a frosty day (35 F) with thick winter gloves, the hottest setting was very warm, and after about 5 minutes I decided to lower the temp to 3. On moderately cool days with thin gloves I'll probably use 1-2 for the heat setting. On colder days when wearing winter gloves I'll probably start at 5 for 5-10 minutes and then reduce to 3 as it warms up. Adding this to my bike will definitely have a huge positive impact on my cold weather ride quality and extend my riding season! Really happy so far! However, additional accessories are needed for a comfortable ride in cold weather, such as: B. Windbreak bracers, high-quality winter gloves and warm gear. If you change the oil yourself and know how to remove a motorcycle's fairings/caps/gas tank to access the innards, you can get the job done). I agree with other reviewers who commented that the instructions are pretty poor. Other than that, the kit is very concise and detailed instructions aren't really needed. CHECK BEFORE INSTALLATION. It would be a real shame if you cut off your old grips, fitted them and then found that they didn't work. Get a 12v power supply or a spare battery, plug it in and see if it gets warm. They fit well and are very difficult to take off once you put them on. Installation - Cabling: In my experience, the cabling here is also very simple. Each handle has a wire and 2 pin connector that goes into the wire harness where the control module is connected. It doesn't matter which grip fits into which fork. This wiring harness has a 4 pin connector that connects to a long cable with two wires at the end that you connect to a 12v power supply. I would recommend a switched power supply if you can access it easily to avoid killing the battery by accidentally leaving it activated. They don't have an auto shut off or voltage regulation like some of the more expensive brands. I used a Honda 6P connector on my NC700X. I added a splice to my custom wiring harness and connected the wire to the Sumitomo HM's waterproof connector. The end of the cable supplied with this kit has its own fuse which should be left in place if connecting directly to the battery. I decided to turn off the fuse to cut the wire to the correct length and also because I'm connecting a switched circuit to a fuse. Assembly - Claws: One of the claws has a larger inner diameter; This goes through the throttle tube. Another goes to another bar. If your gas pipe has burrs or bumps like my Honda, you'll need to cut it off with a dremel or otherwise file it. Some people do this by disassembling the entire throttle tube/cable assembly, but I found it was easy enough to sand them down with a dremel while they were still installed on the bike. The kit includes end caps for bikes that do not have end weights. I decided to just cut off the old handles - I will never put them back on. If you want to keep them, some people will pick them up and spray them with compressed air or grease (PTFE or silicone) to break up the glue. Before assembly, remove the glue from the bars, then make them slippery with soap or hairspray so you can push and twist the new grip. Some people use a block of wood and a hammer to make this process easier, but I've found it's not necessary. Once the soap or hairspray has dried, the grip will be tight. I used the supplied super glue on the right side of the throttle body but not the left side. The glue bottle is of very poor quality, when I opened it it spilled on my hand! Not good. It also dripped onto my bike's paintwork because I foolishly didn't put a towel in there to protect everything. regret. Buyers be warned. If I were to do it again, I would buy a reputable brand of Permatex cyanoacrylate "Super" glue to use in place of the glue that came with it.
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