5. Inverter I tried and ended up working successfully with the Frigidaire (Ningbo) EFR492 4.6cc. Path. Many new RVs are equipped with a similar "household fridge". First I tried a 300w inverter and a 500w inverter, probably a simple rectangular one. The fridge compressor drew power (heated) but never worked. The same Cantonape 500W "pure sine" I bought and returned that gave an "error" from time to time. Assuming that 110VAC is the minimum specification for a refrigerator, I tried the KRXNY 300W "pure sine wave" at 120VAC, but the result was the same. DATOUBOSS supplies 118 VAC. I measured 7.4A DC at 11.8V DC with the input compressor on and 0.7A (spec) off. If we subtract and apply the 95% efficiency, we get 75 watts per fridge, which is close to the 68 watts I found. Tested at day 109 F so both may have lost potency. The compressor must have a very high power input that shuts down the others. I certainly don't need a constant 1000W, that would drain a 12V 110Ah battery in just 1.4 hours and draw 80A more. than my 30A 12V converter can supply when connected to the "landline" 120V AC, as well as wiring to the car while driving. But it handles lower loads which I'll be fine with. I will run a cable from the inverter switch to the DPDT switch (to be added) to allow switching between "inverter" and "land" and to eliminate the 0.7A idle current draw when the inverter is not is used. It would be nice if the inverters had a connector (let's say a mini audio) to make it easier to connect the remote switch without opening and soldering the front cover.
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