Will update review if anything goes wrong. Bought a 700M open box when available (was $140 for PM at the time of purchase). If you fluctuate between 700 (automatic) and 700m (manual), let me tell you straight away: The automatic part of the former is the adjustment of the assumed humidity. Depending on the outside temperature, you will need a cable thermometer. The manual version comes with a simple dial that you use to tell the device how much moisture you want it to deliver. However, the automatic version is much more difficult in terms of wiring if, like me, you do everything yourself. (Note: Doing it yourself will void your warranty so this is very important.) We have a Bryant 80 oven and the installation went smoothly. It has a 24V COM port as well as a 24V Hum connection (**BEFORE YOU ACCEPT YOUR 24V Hum connection, CONTACT YOUR OVEN MANUFACTURER. THIS IS QUITE IMPORTANT**). This meant we didn't have to use a transformer to get the required 24V connections. The 24V COM port went to the connection of one hand control unit and the HUM went to the humidifier unit and then to the connection of the second hand control. When using the 24V HUM connector, the humidifier will ONLY work when the oven heating element is on, which is what we wanted. We didn't want it wired so that the controller tells the oven fan to run along with the humidifier when the heater is NOT working, worried about water vapor in cold ducts and all the other problems that might arise. The only thing that might affect my assessment of the installation is that the duct cutout template allowed the base to be attached, but the placement of the screws prevented any low points from completely traversing the duct metal. Ridiculously bad design. You could easily move these spots farther from the edge of the channel metal. I applied some silicone sealant around the rim to make it at least a relatively airtight fit to the duct. (I installed it on the heater side of the oven and the regulator on the cold air return side)
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