After determining that whistles were available for purchase at HomeDepot, I calculated the prices for individual parts. About twice as expensive with HD! Of course, this material is lighter, but strong enough for shelves. That, and you don't have to degrease, clean, and paint them because they're already done (brushy thing, matte black look). I installed two sets: 1) Large system that occupies a 10 x 7 foot wall; and 2) 6-shelf system with a width of 48 inches. I used sanded/painted 2x10" HD boards - they look great! Both are ceiling mounts to give the floor a clean, spacious look. Installation is a bit tricky as you have to connect pipes along the way; and sometimes it does Combination of threading, leveling and snug fit just a little awkward to work with. My first install was a learning experience. My second was much quicker, smoother, perfectly smooth and straight. Here is my suggestion (for the ceiling mount that comes with the product) : 1) Determine your shelf configuration (spacing, number of shelves, etc.) 2) Measure and mark 11.75" between the wall and the center of the flange. The center hole flange simplifies this task. Repeat for each vertical tube that You're planning. I installed the support angles in the attic, but I think you can get away with two screws hitting the joist ( mandatory) and two anchors. Your first set of vertical pipes will be screwed in tight, and then a tee. Keep in mind that you may have to settle for a slight slack in the threads as carving makes this a guessing game. 4 turns shy, you can safely turn it a quarter turn, so keep that in mind. I screwed the wall plate first and carefully pulled the vertical rod away from the wall while rotating the flange flush with the wall 5) Keep the ceiling/wall flange equal distance to the adjacent wall. This is now your baseline for the rest of the flanges - and as long as you use the already aligned blue tape edge everything will sit flat and level (minus manufacturing tolerances) 6) Use the blue tape to create a vertical straight line from the edge of the wall flange. Use the tape as a base for subsequent layers. - Temporarily position each wall flange, mark the anchor holes and turn aside. - Mount dowels, turn back flange and screw on. 7) As you install each segment, check the flatness and adjust accordingly (i.e. thread the pipe in/out but make sure you have enough threads for strength. Don't do this). Don't forget to check horizontally and vertically. 8) Ignore the inevitable few loose sections as the weight of the boards will keep things from rattling/moving. *Be aware that pipes and threading style/method aren't designed for super precision, so you'll have to make some concessions when setting it up - knowing that once everything is in place, very few people can tell when they are not informed.
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