I haven't installed it yet but did a dry fit to see where it all comes together but wanted to share my insanely detailed rust and wear prevention chart since I was on the Oregon am Coast (and my van is white). 1/4" inner diameter and 5/8" outer diameter washers were used wherever the bolt met another piece of metal. Warning: Use larger washers, these screws are over 1/4 inch so they were difficult to install. Thinner flat rubber washers on the outside of the brackets that all fasteners go through - make sure to get washers with a fairly large ID here too. I ended up using rubber glue on the large washers to attach them to the brackets, they wanted to curl up from the pressure of the screws. Brackets, a piece of split fuel line on a bracket that rests on the drip guide as another reviewer suggested, and pieces of vacuum tape (also rubber bonded) where the brace meets the bottom/side of the drip guide and where the two bracket pieces come together when tightened meeting. I had to use the clamps on the rail fastener pieces to start tightening the nuts because these fasteners are so short but once secured they are good, the foam I used was about 1/4 inch thick , but it compresses well and that's what I wanted . Then I found a piece of Pla rubber band, which luckily turned out to be slightly tapered on each edge, and rubber taped to the inner rail where the two rails meet to even out the tilt between the two and prevent water ingress . I chose not to use a through bolt on the rails. - If you put a gasket to take the slop out, it's not necessary because they're not going anywhere once installed. After installation I will plug this hole and caulk the joint between the two rails where it is routed. I'd dare rust that bastard, but that would be a temptation of fate in the great wet Pacific Northwest. I'll get back to you in a winter or two. In general, the processing of the device looks bombproof, I don't see any flaws. I protect the rails with cardboard or something when I move things so I don't damage the surface.
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